On Friday last week I got my quotation from Fleetwood Windows for a 29 x 47 (based on golden ratio of course) Westwood 250 casement (convenient over workbench) window. It was over $1000.
I was also a bit disappointed by U-factor, 0.53 SGHC was OK at 0.27.
But now I see that 0.53 and the specified SGHC is in fact within energy star requirements. So this is in fact an Energy Star window. An Energy Star high end Aluminum window. You won't find anything like that in stock at Home Depot or Lowes, all their stocked energy star windows are vinyl (yuck) or maybe wood (stick, sigh) and you'll be lucky to get the window guy to tell you anything about special ordering HR 500 series thermal break aluminum windows.
Meanwhile the other choice I've been meaning to check out is Serious Windows in fiberglass. They look unbeatable in energy performance, particularly in the higher end models. But now I've heard that some of those can cost $2000. Here's a blog on them:
http://www.replacement-windows.com/windowbb/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=2899
Fiberglass has many advantages, including having thermal expansion coefficient much like glass itself. But I worry about the wind loads on a casement window, and wonder if aluminum window, especially a strong aluminum window from Fleetwood (the Westwood 250 series have big robust frames) might be stronger and ultimately hold up longer.
So while I was initially shocked and disappointed by the Fleetwood quotation, I might go there after all.
It still may be worth checking out the cheapest fiberglass series at Serious, the 525 series.
Update:
I've sent a few more questions to Fleetwood, might sign for Fleetwood window shortly. The metal frames look to be very strong, that's exactly what I need here. I plan to check out Serious Windows when I'm replacing the sliding and single hung windows in my actual house.
So what type of flooring are you planning to have? I am having trouble choosing something dogproof.
ReplyDeleteHaven't thought of that. You sure think about different things than I do. I was thinking what's wrong with bare concrete, works in garage, except boxes will have to be put on barrier of some kind, maybe pieces of linoleum, to prevent rot. Noelia has been thinking of doing stained concrete for her future bedroom in my house, I think that blocks the alkali seepage that destroys boxes. That's the only problem I have with bare concrete. Flooring can always be added post construction if you can handle the logistics. In this case, whatever it is will have to be waterproof, allowing people to enter dripping wet from jacuzzi, so carpeting and wood are right out.
ReplyDeleteI've sent message to Fleetwood asking about a few details, might sign short.
I was going with vinyl planks, then switched to concrete, then concerned that neither of those would be dog proof enough, I'm switching to tile.
ReplyDeleteDogs do make mistakes and get sick. That is why I removed the carpet that was in this room.
I think if the concrete is stained or painted and then sealed, it is ok to put anything on it. It has to be tested first for moisture seepage.