Getting the ISY994i Insteon Home Controller to Work Again

I finally got around to installing the new Insteon 2413s modem on Sunday evening last week.  I had figured installation of the new modem would be a piece of cake.  I imagined that all I would have to do is unplug the old modem, plug the new one in, connect it to the ISY994i serial port, and run the "Restore PLM" and "Restore Devices" in the web based program, and my home control system (with automated lights and bedroom macro controls) would be working again.

It was not at all that simple, it ultimately took me about 4 hours of frustration to get my home control system working again.  At least I now have ideas as to what was going wrong and how it can be done relatively quickly if I should need to again.

Here's my thinking (which is easier to explain than the nearly endless trial-and-error).  When the new PLM is plugged in, it has no links to other Insteon devices in my network.  That means that other devices cannot "relay" the messages that the ISY994i is sending out to link and program those devices, and the RF/PLC signals just have to be strong enough from the ISY994i itself.  This is particularly difficult after the front door light (a fluorescent with daylight sensor) turns on because that light generates huge amount of electrical and RFI noise.  The LED patio lights and Kitchen Table light on dimmer also generate a huge amount of noise.  Once I figured that noise was blocking the signals, I turned off the lights I could but I had no switch to turn off the front door light (yes, that is the way I arranged it…the front door light is automatic only, cannot be turned off by accident, and if I need to change the bulb once every 7 years I turn off the breaker).  But then, the breaker for the front door light is on the same circuit as ALL the Insteon devices nearest to the ISY994i (as it turns out, just my luck).  I could have waited until the next day (Monday?) but I never have time to mess with this stuff before going to work.  So I tried to solve the problem as best I could at night with the front door light on when I have it's circuit on.

The trick was to pull out the Insteon module which controls the living room Lava Lamp (on the same circuit as front door light) and plug it into the outlet nearest to the ISY994i.  THEN I could flip the front door light breaker to off and still program that module.  (There's also any ISY994i trick in which you right click on each individual device and a menu lets you link/program JUST that one device, rather than ALL the devices--which takes a LONG time and can still fail completely when there are connection difficulties.)

Then I programmed all other Insteon modules this way, by temporarily plugging them into still active outles in the kitchen near the ISY994i.  With 3 Insteon modules plugged in in the kitchen, and capable of relaying Insteon messages, I finally had enough signal strength flip the front door light breaker on again and program the kitchen light and patio light (which are on the same super noisy circuit as the Front Door light, wouldn't you know, no wonder I had so much trouble with X10).

Then I put all the modules back in their places…and everything worked despite the line noise because of the way Insteon modules cooperatively relay messages.

Before discovering this method, I had endless tried running the "Restore PLM" and "Restore all devices" programs in the ISY994i menus.  It seemed as though they were always linking my devices in the reverse order that I had done originally…starting with the last modules I had added to my system and working back to the first modules I had added to my system.  That is likely the wrong approach.  Better to start from the first devices added to the network (which are likely the ones closer to the PLM which you *could have* programmed initially) and work forwards to the last devices added to the network (which might not be reachable until the previous ones are linked).

But I don't know if that would have made any difference, since even when I tried manually I couldn't link the closer devices by themselves first anyway, I actually had to remove modules from their existing locations and flip the front door light breaker before I could get sufficiently signal quality to do the linking.  Now I don't know whether if it would have been easier had I waited until daylight (which turns the front door light off) or pulled out the front door light bulb first.

One interesting thing was I discovered you could make the PLM signal devices that it can actually communicate with by pressing the button 3 times (or was it 4 times?).  Then the nearby devices that it can communicate with start blinking their comm lights.  When I tried this (which was before I finally came up with the working strategy described above) it seemed I had native communication to the Lava Lamp module, the kitchen light, and the patio light.  But then with the PLM connected to the ISY994i it seemed to be unable to link those devices anyway.  So it seems like the linking process that ISY994i does might require better signal quality than the "test" performed by the PLM.

Meeting the Plumber

I finally had consolation with the Plumber, the principal Plumber himself.  As a result, I've made the following choices:

Valve will be Delta 1700 series.  He has installed and used this himself for over a decade and highly recommends it.  It gets high marks elsewhere too (though in this link they put the Hansgrohe…read very expensive and hard to get parts…on top).  I had pre-selected either this Delta or the Moentrol, depending on plumber's advice.  The plumber knows how these things stand up to local hard water, the availability of spare parts, etc.  So I go with his advice, and AFAIK the Delta has many advantages, intuitive use, upgradeable platform, and made-in-USA.

When the plumber was out I suggested the 17078-SS valve cover, but have subsequently decided I like the 17038-SS slightly better and will update the plumber on Monday.

I will not get second hand spray head mounted on vertical rod with in-wall flow valve.  That would add $750 to the price for something I don't much use, and I'm not sure I like it better either.  I will use shower arm diverter and hand spray attached as I now have in other bathroom, using the Delta paddle type shower arm diverter which is a small miracle--it works better than anything.  Plumber recommends getting some more of those paddle type diverters for future replacement.

As an aside, this will also permit a full length horizontal grab bar underneath the spray heads.  The vertical rod might have interfered with that.

For the time being, I've chosen the Delta H2OKinetic 52660-SS spray head.  It sounds very good and gets good reviews, and the finish will match the Delta valve cover of course.  Plumber says spray head is a personal choice and easily replaced later and he didn't recommend anything.  I had pre selected this spray head (also supposedly self-cleaning) even if I were to get the Moen valve.

I will replace the toilet.  The old one has to be removed to get the tub in anyway.  It wasn't that I didn't want new toilet but rather only I wanted to avoid the additional expense now.  But it would be nice to have new toilet particularly to get comfort height and elongated bowl.  So I told the plumber that and he recommended the Kohler K-4484 and K-4304 combination with Sloan pressurized flush unit.  Apparently the Sloan unit (actually available for many different toilets) has become the top standard since new water regulations (1.2 gallons or something like that…1.6 is now ancient history here) went into effect…it has the best pressured flush system available.  The Toto toilet I had preselected was only recommended in the 1.6 flush version, I had no preselection in 1.2 gallon flush.   Kohler is a top quality brand, good styling, an American brand which does a lot of manufacturing in USA, and the Almond color will match my Kohler tub perfectly.  The Sloan flush unit will be repairable for the foreseeable future, especially through my current plumber who recommended it.

I will get the Kohler Coralais 8 inch bathtub diverter spout.  The plumber was aware of how heavy and solid this unit is compared with others.  It's solid brass.  But the finish will have to be Chrome since it's unavailable in Brushed Nickel or Stainless steel.  At that point, he suggested making everything chrome, or going with the 7.6 inch Moen diverter spout I had preselected to make everything brushed nickel.

But I had already decided otherwise, that it was OK for the spout to be chrome and everything else Brushed Nickel.  I know this is bending "the rules" but if you read design blogs as much as I do, you find that nearly everyone bends the rules.  Mixing different finishes *can* be done.  My thought was a chrome spout, sort of in "the middle", with everything else brushed nickel would be OK.  If the Corolais had been available in Brushed Nickel I would have gotten that.  But function is the most important thing, and the Coralais looks like the best diverter spout for someone with a Bellwether tub.  Looks made for that purpose.  Matches the style too.  Most other spouts are too short.

Speaking of which, the Delta valve cover and shower head are not actually brushed nickel either.  They are "stainless steel."  But apparently Delta's regular Stainless is pretty close to what everyone else calls Brushed Nickel.  It has a slight yellow undertone.  Delta doesn't have a brushed nickel option for most parts.  From all I can see online it's close enough, and I've read discussions on this too.  Delta has recently introduced "Arctic Stainless Steel" specifically to be less yellow and match what other manufacturers call Stainless Steel.  I want the original Delta stainless, basically the same as Brushed Nickel.  Stainless Steel gets its colors from the steel, large amounts of nickel, and tiny bit of chromium.

The warmth of Brushed Nickel and Delta's stainless is a great match for the Almond color of my tub and the gold lines in the porcelain tile.  Chrome looks bluish and cool, good for white but not almond.  I also just like (have always liked) the look of brushed nickel, and it doesn't show water spots, etc.  For something that gets cleaned only once a month by my housecleaners, that will be best.  Some people say that Brushed Nickel is a fad…but I don't think so.  I see Brushed Nickel, which was the standard high end finish before the 1920's, as resuming its rightful place beside Chrome.  My idea of a fad would be oil rubbed bronze…who needs that kind of maintenance hassle?  Brushed Nickel is said to be equally durable to Chrome, and some say Brushed Nickel is more durable than Chrome.

The plumber will pick up and deliver the tub when it is needed from Ferguson.  That way he provides delivery and warranty.  He says he deals with Ferguson all the time, and will buy the other parts from them also.  So I will need to cancel existing order with Ferguson and have it switched over to the plumber.  I have emailed Ferguson.  I worry that the sales lady might loose some commission doing it this way (going to the plumber instead).

Ants, Ants

About two weeks ago, following the onset of cooler wetter autumn weather, ants invaded 3 key areas of my home: the two bathrooms and the kitchen.  Previously this sort of thing had not much happened, usually a few ants in bathroom OR kitchen were easily dealt with by spraying around the foundation of the house nearby.  Right now, my foundation is nearly all up to date with ant spray (from last weekend) but I still have ants, and I'm beginning to worry that they are actually coming into my house through the plumbing voids in the foundation, which are accessible but just barely.  They used to be inspected when I had annual termite inspections…and the termite inspectors cut the required holes in the walls and put covers over them.  But they are still not so easy to get to, necessarily.

Up until last weekend, I was pretty much just fooling around about the ants.  I bought some ant traps and placed them in what seemed like strategic places Sunday before last.  But the ants ignored the ant traps, and kept growing in numbers.  I also got some ant baits.  Those seemed to work better, at least the ants detected them and started carrying them away.  I renewed the baits in the kitchen (put near an ant trail leading to the cupboard) several times in the kitchen during the week, and twice in the hall bath (in the most inaccessible corner of the outside of the bathtub).  But after days of apparently taking the baits, the ants were still coming.  For a few days I was hopeful the baits were working, but it was not to be.  I've never had success with ant bait type products…going back to my childhood.  It's almost always the case that ants ignore them, and then when they don't ignore them, they just don't seem to work.  But it seems like such a great idea, I keep trying.

The tried and true method it to stop ants with a permethrin type spray like Raid.  It not only kills ants, it creates a barrier they refuse to cross--and that's the most important part.  I'd recently discovered the unscented version of Raid and have been using that.  I try to use ant spray mostly outside around the foundation, and that almost always works.  Sometimes I spray baseboards inside the house.  Last year the ants in the new hallway floor were so bad (they were having a huge ant war or something right on my new hallway floor…millions of ants coming from all sides during a rainstorm) I actually sprayed the floor itself as far as 8 inches from the baseboards.

The kid gloves came off this weekend.  I was getting quite tired, especially, of the ants starting on my meals before I had even finished them.  And they loved glasses left on the dining room table.  Previously I sprayed a key foot of the table, and that seemed to help for awhile, but then it was clear the ants were getting on to the table via the maze of wires that connects to my computer, monitor, and accessories on the table, which was not so easily dealt with.  I am not going to spray the dining room table or my computer equipment!

On Saturday I sprayed the front of the house, from near the garage door, across the front door stoop, and to the chimney.  That was all I could easily access, even then I had to remove many new leaves from my neighbor's tree from the crack between the house and the walkway leading up to the house.  The leaves in that crack provide a path for ants to walk on and also would deflect the ant spray.  I couldn't spray any more of the front of the house or the north side because it seriously needed edging.

I also sprayed just along a line above the kitchen doorway, where it was clear ants were going from one side of the kitchen to the other.  (I'm not really sure which way they were going.)  That stopped the train of ants going over the doorway, but they still seemed to be on both sides.

By Sunday, it was clear that wasn't helping much.  So then I edged the entire north side of the house using a string trimmer and a pair of scissors for the tricky bits that the edger can't do.  (People don't believe this, but if you trim with a string edger first the fine work is most easily done with something really small, like a pair of scissors).  After I had it all perfectly trimmed (the best I've ever done, actually) I sprayed the entire exposed cement foundation from the north side of the back patio to the front door.  That took more than a half can of Raid.  Then I sprayed where the hose attaches in the back yard (I saw ants coming in via the hose from the back yard).  By that time, there was little left in the can so I sprayed the back yard side of the foundation, which had been previously done a few weeks ago--but there's been heavy rains and wind since then.  I tossed that can, but still had a little in the can I had been using previous weeks.

By evening it was clear they were still attacking the dining room table.  The appeared to be coming from the special audiophile quality AC outlet near the kitchen table.  So then I did what I really didn't want to do.  I unplugged the UPS that powers my kitchen computer and A/V equipment, covered the AC outlet receptacles with painters tape, and sprayed the outlet cover and nearby wall.  I wiped it off with a paper towel so it wasn't dripping wet (I was wearing gloves, of course) and then let it dry or at least settle for 8 minutes.  Then I removed the painters tape and plugged back in the UPS.  Well that was the trick!  I haven't seen any ants on the kitchen table since Monday morning.

I also sprayed around the baseboards of the vanity in the master bath.  That kept them off the bathroom floor, which was getting worrisome, but not off the bathroom vanity.  Maybe once in my life I've had to spray an actual counter top (and later cleaned it off) but that kind of thing I seriously try to avoid.

As of today, the kitchen table is clear of ants, as is the master bathroom floor.  But they are still on the kitchen counters (though somewhat diminished), around the hall bath and lavatory, and on the master bath counter top, as well as in the dishwasher until it cycles (so I've been cycling it every day, just rinse cycle until I have a full load to wash, as I do right now, and had to go to store to get more Cascade Complete with Dawn).

I bought a fresh can of raid and I'm going to do the last bit outside that still shows ants…the crack between foundation and driveway in front of the garage door.  The ants might be getting in there, traveling through the attic, and down into the kitchen and bathrooms.  (Or, as I now worry, they might be actually coming into the house through the plumbing voids.)

I have been treating nuisance ant mounds in the yard with Dawn in water solution for the last year.  Dawn actually seems to work and is probably less toxic than most such things.  I bought some "safe for food preparation areas" natural ant spray called Orange Guard, and used that on a mound near the back patio on Sunday.  It seems to work about as well as Dawn.

*****

Updates: Ants continued into the next week.  A critical line of Raid on the wall beside the kitchen table now seems (finally!) to be blocking ants from the kitchen table.  I've been routinely spraying the inside of the dishwasher with Orange Guard.  A friend cleaned the counter tops.  I put some Raid on a kleenex and wiped under the counter above the dishwasher.  That seemed to help a lot.  I sprayed Raid into and around the spout and drain in the Queen's bathtub…which seems to have stopped the very persistent ants there.  On Thanksgiving Day I trimmed the one bit of remaining weeds alongside the front walkway and sprayed there and around into the crevice in front of the garage door.  The ants had been quite active in and around that crevice.