Just before 1pm, I paid the electrician, giving a check for $893.25 as final payment. Last thing they did was to install GFCI outlet in kitchen next to refrigerator. That new kind of GFCI has a bypass for the refrigerator, so even if the GFCI trips the refrigerator will keep on running. The refrigerator is grounded and any electrical fault will trip breaker while the user always touches either plastic or grounded metal. The new outlet gets a fancy stone plate. The old outlet looks like a spec grade Pass & Seymour which I can use for bedroom audio, or maybe it's just a Hubbel.
Before that, JJ demonstrated the fan, it has no wobble. He warned me that the light chain may need to be pulled (I have not yet installed the LED bulbs) before the light switch will work. Earlier he showed me how the panel was layed out, as I requested, the air conditioner and heater are on one leg of the 220, and the equipment outlets on another. My 5600 BTU air conditioner draws only 5 amps so this is OK, and hopefully will never run heat and A/C simultaneously.
The electrician used all nylon unbreakable jumbo size covers. The A/C and heater have single outlet receptacles. The equipment outlet, under the window, has a Pass & Seymore spec grade outlet, selected as the best for audio by the late audio guru Bob Crump. I gave that to the electrician before he started work, along with the Hunter fan speed control.
While the electrician was working, I started sealing the outside of the A/C. There was a fairly large gap in back, made far larger by the corrugations on the bottom of the A/C unit. First, I stuffed in the foam provided by A/C manufacturer. Then I plied on Mortite a minimum of two layers thick so that no foam was exposed. This took about an hour. Now looking from the inside, there are gaps outside of the area I sealed, so I need to do more outside. It was nice working while the electrician was working because it was still before high noon at 1pm, and still shady.
Before that, JJ demonstrated the fan, it has no wobble. He warned me that the light chain may need to be pulled (I have not yet installed the LED bulbs) before the light switch will work. Earlier he showed me how the panel was layed out, as I requested, the air conditioner and heater are on one leg of the 220, and the equipment outlets on another. My 5600 BTU air conditioner draws only 5 amps so this is OK, and hopefully will never run heat and A/C simultaneously.
The electrician used all nylon unbreakable jumbo size covers. The A/C and heater have single outlet receptacles. The equipment outlet, under the window, has a Pass & Seymore spec grade outlet, selected as the best for audio by the late audio guru Bob Crump. I gave that to the electrician before he started work, along with the Hunter fan speed control.
While the electrician was working, I started sealing the outside of the A/C. There was a fairly large gap in back, made far larger by the corrugations on the bottom of the A/C unit. First, I stuffed in the foam provided by A/C manufacturer. Then I plied on Mortite a minimum of two layers thick so that no foam was exposed. This took about an hour. Now looking from the inside, there are gaps outside of the area I sealed, so I need to do more outside. It was nice working while the electrician was working because it was still before high noon at 1pm, and still shady.
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