Is Baird Foundation Repair Quality Slipping ?

Early Foundation Fears 

When I bought my house in 1992, there was suspicion that it would probably need foundation repair.  I bought it from the Resolution Trust Corporation, which provided absolutely no warranties.  Forms needed to be signed indicating I understood that.  There was a ridge in the master bedroom carpeting that looked like a foundation issue.

But I did not remove that carpeting until 2014 when I did a grand remodeling of the bedrooms and hallway.  It turned out there was no deep visible crack in the bedroom floor.  The ridge in the carpeting was caused by a small bump about the size of a tiny pebble which had caused the carpeting to fold in that peculiar way.  I was greatly relieved.  I was making pretty good money then, and I could have much more easily paid for foundation repair if it was necessary, but it didn't appear to be.

But by 2022, sometime after the Texas Deep Freeze, the situation was different.  Gaps started opening up between the master bedroom western wall and the ceiling letting daylight into the master bedroom.  At first I believed this had to be an issue with the roof, and I hired a home inspector.

The inspector checked a lot of things, and even went into the attic.  He used a laser level on the floors.  And he gave me the bad news.  The gap had nothing to do with the roof.  It was caused by parts of the foundation footing falling.

My usual contractor suggested I look into foam leveling.

I looked around for top companies and ended up contacting Baird Foundation Repair.  They looked like the most solid and reputable company around, and that was important in work that might require the backing of a lifetime warranty.  They advertised foam leveling.  But when I contacted them, they said they only used foam leveling on driveways and patios.  Homes needed better support, and foundation piers were required.

I was impressed that they didn't try to sell me what I had asked for.  That shows they are hones, I figured.  Perhaps too easily, I selected Baird to do the work.

Baird came out and measured my floor and looked at the foundation from the outside.  I told them I wanted the least amount of work done to fix the problem in the master bedroom, I wasn't much concerned about the cracks elsewhere (and all over the house, actually).  After all, it was already a 39 year old house and some cracks were to be expected, and I could just fill them.  But a gap opening up to the outside was a big deal, I thought.

They determined the key source of trouble was not just below where the cracks were, but at the southwest corner of the house and half of the southwest side.  The minimum estimate just to fix that problem would be about $7500.  However, they recommended much larger fixes.  They recommended putting piers around further around the house, and ultimately including the house and attached garage.  The full option was $44,000.  I agreed to the lowest cost estimate.

But then I took a look around the house myself.  It seemed I could see underneath the footings along the entire south side of the house AND the attached garage (which are actually on a unified slab.).  And also more along the southwest side.  So I called Baird and asked for all that to be included, and I got a new estimate of about $19,000.  I went for that, figuring it was reasonable that the combination of southern sunlight and erosion along the south side had caused this issue.

More History

Ever since I bought the house I had been worried about 'preserving' the foundation, which I thought was already cracked (until 2014 as described above).  I ran soaker hoses along the the southern and western sides with this in mind.  But it always seemed that whenever I ran the soaker hoses, the cracks in the wall on the inside got worse, and the outside didn't look any better either.

I considered the possibility of an underground watering system.  But the only company I found to do that work was in Houston, 250 miles away.  And I read that there was an issue that the underground systems could clog and then be expensive to repair, so I gave up on that idea.

But around 2013 when I had constructed "The Brick Pool House" (actually, a glorified storage building with standing seam metal roof, Hardyplank siding, 6 inch walls and foam insulation, and a foundation thick enough to support a 3 story building, everything built as well as I could imagine) I decided to add sprinklers all around the house.  Not only would this keep the grass growing consistently all year long, it would keep the soil uniformly moist and prevent further foundation cracking, I believed. 

But over time, the neighbor's trees grew up on the south side and no matter what I did I could not grow grass there very well.  By 2018 or so it was a lost cause.  This was also true around the southwest corner of the house.  But, without thinking about it very much, I still kept running the sprinklers.  I thought this was continuing to moisten the soil, but just as much it was adding to erosion.

The neighbor's trees along the northwest side were also leading to mass grass die off.  By 2022 there was no more grass around the northwest corner of the house either.  But I continued to run the sprinklers for branch #4 which also included key parts of the back and front of the house where there still was grass.

I was not paying attention to the shading, lack of grass, and erosion all around the south, west, and north sides of the house.

A lot of digging was done around the southwest corner because of the electrical box and telephone and cable connections there.  The digging included:

1) Fixing the (entirely broken) ground rod connection in 2009 when I was adding a whole house surge supressor.

2) Running power to the Brick Pool House, which required a 2-3 foot deep trench from the electrical panel to the building.

3) Adding antenna grounds for my 3 TV, Radio, and Shortwave antennas on the north side of the house.  Those antennas had local grounds (requiring digging 3 foot deep holes around the northwest corner of the house too), and a 3-4 foot trench constructed in the middle of the back yard for a "bonding" wire to bond the antenna grounds to the main house grounding rod).

Little did I think that all this digging around the southwest and northwest corners of the house would ever lead to any issues.  But they were probably a contributing factor, since once the very heavy clay soil is dug out, the soil put back in is never as dense or solid.   And by 2016 or so there was little or no grass to hold the soil in place either.

In 2002 I installed gutters in the front of the house and the adjacent side of the house.  Once I had installed the gutters, I put the issue out of mind.  There were no leaves to clog the gutters, and I did not think I had to worry about them.  But for many years, the gutter along the west side of the house was not working at all.  I only noticed this the first time around 2019, after I was retired.  The gutters had clogged from issues related to faulty original design AND clogging caused by roof granuals.  They were not working, and instead of water being diverted to my 3 foot splash block, it was just falling over the gutter along the entire west side of house (note: this is only about 15 feet because the attached garage covers most of the front of the house.).

Meanwhile, I installed Rain Handlers along the west side of the house.  Rain Handlers were supposed to convert water falling off the roof into a fine mist.  It sort of seemed to work OK for the first one I installed in front of the master bedroom window, but I wasn't paying much attention.  I mainly just assumed they were working, and installed Rain Handlers along the entire west side of the house.  It was only much later I determined the Rain Handlers were not working at all.  Instead of creating a "fine mist" they were simply displacing the water about 4 inches further out and causing great erosion at that point.

I now see erosion and caused by my inattention to all these points as the the major factor ultimately responsible for most if not all of my foundation damage.  Also the holes dug around the southwest and northeast corners, and the lack of grass to keep the soil firm and free of erosion.

Baird in 2022

I was very impressed by the work Baird did in 2022.  They sent out a team of five workers, and spent a day creating big holes with for the new piers.  On a second day they came out again and did adjustments.  After all the adjustments were done, the gap in the bedroom wall closed up, and they took new measurements inside.  They did a perfect job in filling in the cement in the driveway where they had added a new pier.  The piers ranged from 25 to 35 feet deep, and I also asked for and paid for additional backfill dirt, and as a result the total cost came to around $21,000.  They still recommended I put piers around the rest of the house and garage but I figured that was not necessary.  Their engineer told me I could expect "setting" for around 30 days.  I did see slight expansion in cracks on the north side of the house but nothing to be very concerned about, I thought.

Later Issues

But by 2025, the situation was different.  The cracking in the northwest corner was not looking good.  It was around 1/8 to 1/4 of an inch between the inside wall.  No daylight was being let in, but it began to worry me.

Any dripped water on the kitchen countertop was also running quickly down the countertop and towards the west.  This had probably been happening for quite some time, but it also must have been getting worse, and I first noticed it in 2024.

Finally, if I opened the sliding glass door about 4 inches, it would keep on sliding nearly all the way open.  This was the most worrisome thing of all.

I was wondering if I should have gotten Baird to put piers around the entire house as they recommended.  I figured the price might have gone way up since 2022 and was very worried about that.  So I called Baird for another estimate.

Baird in 2025

The Baird estimator came out and agreed I needed more foundation work, continuing to recommend I put piers around the entire house and garage.  But the minimum job to fix the largest depression and cracking around the northwest corner in the kitchen, would cost around $9000.  I asked what it would cost to include the front of the house as well, where there had always been minor cracking issues near the wall and ceiling, and front door related issues as well.  I was pleasantly surprised it would only cost $14,000.  It did not seem like the price had gone up since 2022 as I had greatly feared.  

I felt it best that I now put piers around the rest of the house (while I could still afford it) but not including the north side and front of garage which would push the cost to $25,000.  The north side of the garage has a 3 foot wide walkway in front of it (in addition to the gutters) and the front of the garage has a cement driveway, and hardly any water falls towards the front anyway because the garage roof slopes to the sides.  Erosion is basically not a problem there.  And the measurements taken in 2022 showed the front northeast corner of the garage was actually (and not surprisingly) higher than the rest of the house, probably because of all that protection from erosion.

Baird sent a crew of 4 people, headed by Daniel Montoya, to do the work.  They knocked it off in about 5 hours from 9:30 am to 2:30 pm.

When the piers had been installed, Daniel came to me telling me the work was done.  But there had been no "leveling" done in the northwest corner.

Daniel said, "I understood you as saying you wanted to keep the costs down, so no leveling."

I corrected him, "I wanted no leveling around most of the house, and especially in the front where it could affect the drain and cause me to spend a lot of money on drain repair, but I did want the northwest corner of the house lifted just enough that the sliding door would not open by itself (as I then demonstrated to him).

OK, he said, and proceeded to raise the three piers on the north side, including the corner one.  I though it would have been better to raise the 2 piers surrounding the corner pier, including the one in the patio, but Daniel said that wasn't necessary.

When the piers on the side were raised about 1/2 inch, the old patio cover, in front of the sliding door and attached to the fascia board on the house (and nothing more), and long looking like it was about to fall over anyway, started creaking ominously.

Daniel said, "Well, we could go further, but we can't be responsible for the patio cover falling over."  I agreed we should stop right there.

Luckily, that turned out to be good enough to keep the patio door from opening by itself.

Daniel and his crew started packing up to leave.  "Aren't you going to do measurements inside the house."  Daniel said that wasn't necessary.  "We already have the elevations," he said.  I presumed he had measured elevations on the outside piers (but later found out, that was not the case).  Thus, the elevations recorded were only done before the 2025 foundation work was done, and not after the northwest corner was raised 1/2 inch.  This issue would come back to haunt me later.

Sadly I was then told by the company Baird had hired to do a static pressure told me I needed to repair the house drain.  The Baird consulting engineer said that was the most important thing I could do to protect my house from further foundation damage.  He was unconcerned about the then growing holes in the backfill caused by erosion where the 2022 foundation piers had been installed (which I took great effort to fix in January 2026).  He said the piers were so deep that superficial stuff like that made no difference.

Gem plumbing, who had been selected by Baird, wanted to do the drain repair, but I decided to call my usual plumber, Primo Plumbing, instead.  Primo said they did not do drain work, but recommended their friends at Chambliss.  (Chambliss had replaced my master bath tub and toilet in 2015, and I thought very highly of them despite having issues with that particular pressure driven toilet, but after 2020 they started telling me I was "not in their area" anymore.  I was deeply hurt by that, and looking for another company, settled on Primo Plumbing.). I was worried that Chambliss would refuse.

But now, Chambliss did not refuse and sent out their own team to repeat the static pressure test.  They then did a pinpoint leak test to determine where the leakage was.  They determined the leakage was from a point 5 feet inside my house, and they estimated $4000 to fix it.  I gave them the go ahead.

But after they fixed the leak 5 feet inside my house, they found the drain was still not holding static pressure.  They then proceeded to do a camera test and a pinpoint leak test.  They determined that the leak was an additional 14 feet inside my house.  The plumber asked if I wanted to do that also, and I told him I had often noticed issues around there (warping in the floor) and gave him the go ahead to that.  For a total of 19 feet of drain work inside my house, it would cost a total of $15,900 to fix.  I was beginning to feel pain at all this, but I gave the go ahead anyway.

The drain work was a huge undertaking which required over a month to complete.  First excavators dug an very long and fairly deep hole under the middle of my house.  Then, the plumber came back and replaced all the drains and fittings underneath the house to the plumbing fixtures out to the determined breakage point at 19 feet.  Then they did another static pressure test, finding it was now holding water.  They went back on another day under the house with a video camera in order to show how it was done and obtain the required city permit.  Then the excavation crew returned and spent a day backfilling the hole under my house (which had filled a good portion of my large front lawn).  Since they never put as much soil back as they dug out, I asked that they put the remainder around the (eroding) foundations of my house and the Brick Pool House, which they did for an extra $150.  They had also swiped some of the soil the day they did the original excavations, so I lost some soil in the process.

But during the day of the backfilling, not noises inside the house were horrible.  I endless heard rocks hitting something (the new drain I suspected mostly) as it was being backfilled.  I had a meeting to go to but locked my two cats inside during the rest of the process so they didn't fall into the hole.  (They never forgave me for that, and after that spent much more time outside than inside after that day.)

I began to worry that the backfilling process might have damaged the drain all over again.  I called Chambliss and they said they never did a static pressure test AFTER the backfilling.  I called Primo and they said they would do a static pressure test at all (even though it only requires removing a toilet inside the house, and running an inflatable balloon in through the cleanout) because they don't do drain work.  I felt exhausted by all the work and money I had spent (now totaling over $30,000 for the drain work and foundation piers) and left it at that.  (Now I think I want to get another drain plumber to do another static pressure test.  But I strongly believe this drain issue is overrated.  I think it's mainly used as an excuse to void foundation warranty coverage.  It's convenient because drain repair is so expensive probably few people go through with it.)

So what started as just a minor tweak to fix the self-opening sliding door had now become a vast $30,000 expense requiring a large sum of cash, withdrawals from my pension fund, and loans with payments totaling $525/month which the credit union told me had maxed out my ability to make more personal loans.

I was starting to kick myself for having gone down this path, rather than simply ignoring what were actually very minor issues in 2025.

And then, by around November of 2025, I noticed the sliding glass door, when opened about 4 inches, opening itself again.  The problem was coming back.

By around May of 2025, the self opening door was just as bad as it had been before the foundation repairs.

After the 2025 foundation work in March of 2025, I took a picture of my laser level on the left side of the kitchen shining onto the wall (and far side jamb of the sliding glass door) for later reference.  I took another photo in May of 2026, compared the two photos, and it is clear that the 1/2 inch last minute adjustment of the northwest corner was completely gone.  It was back to where it had been before the foundation work of 2025.  So whatever benefit the work had on that issue, it was now entirely gone.  The northwest corner had settled back to more or less where it was before the 2025 foundation work.

This was not entirely unexpected.  In fact I feared and dreaded it.  After the work in 2025 I did what I had not done in 2022 and demanded that Baird send me the documents for both the work done in 2022 and the work done in 2025.  So I would have a permanent record.  You are supposed to have these documents if you ever need to sell the house.

One thing stood out from the documents like a sore thumb.  Most of the piers around my house were at depths of 25-35 feet.  But piers 1-5 surrounding the northwest corner were only 10-13 feet deep.  The actual corner pier was #3 at 13 feet.  Those were the piers done by Daniel and his assistant, whereas the deeper piers in the front were done by two other workers, and an entirely different crew had worked on my house in 2022.

I was worried those shallow piers from the very moment I saw this document, but decided I would not ask any questions about it unless there appeared to be actual problems with it.  And now there was an actual problem.  The small bit of rise added in 2025 had simply evaporated, as evidenced by my laser level.

In May of 2026 I emailed the principal at Baird Foundation Repair that I had emailed in 2025 to get the documents with my concerns.  I told her that the last minute leveling had disappeared.  And I worried about the 5 shallow piers in the back.  I got no response.  I then sent a letter, and got no response.  Finally I made a call to Baird and was told I could have get warranty repair, but would likely have to wait until August.  I told them I needed the work done as soon as possible because I needed to get my roof replaced, and I wanted the foundation fixed first.

I got a text from Baird indicating Randy had been scheduled for a visit on July 27 at 1:30 PM, then more than two months into the future, to address my warranty concerns.

Then the principal of Baird emailed me back that I had never sent documentation showing that my house had passed a static pressure test after the required drain work had been completed.  I went through all my computer files and could not find that I had ever received such a document.  So I called Chambliss Plumbing and they sent me one.  I downloaded it and forwarded it to Baird.  This took a month because in the meantime I got sick with a very bad Flu, then Pneumonia and got so sick I had to go to Emergency and ultimately spent 3 days in the hospital.  I only got around to sending the document to Baird in early July of 2026 when I regained my health and could stand to think about it.  

A few days later, the principal of Baird said they had reviewed my documents and determined my Foundation Warranty was in effect.  If I had not spent that $15,900 on drain repairs, I would apparently have no foundation warranty at all.  The point at which the drain was repaired is over 20 feet from the northwest corner of the house where unwanted settling had occurred.  I have only ever seen issues within a few feet of where the drain was repaired, some small warping of the vinyl plank floor there, but no effect even on the walls right around it.

Now more than ever I was concerned that I had not gotten Baird to repeat the indoor measurements done after the repairs done in 2025 which had included a half inch raise of the corner.  I worked up what I would say to Randy to describe what had been done.  I reworked how I would present my case to Randy over several days.

But on Monday morning of July 27 I got a text not from Randy but from Daniel, saying he was coming out at 1:30.  I was partly relieved I would not have to explain everything to Daniel, because he had been there.  On the other hand, more than ever, I didn't trust Daniel because he had been responsible for the 5 shallow piers installed in 2025, and was in charge of the crew that did not do measurements after the work was done in 2025, unlike in 2022.

Daniel then texted he wanted to come early, but I was tied up with a roofing estimate and told him so.  Later, when the roofing estimator was gone, I texted Daniel saying he could come out.  He actually did come out around 11:30.

Daniel did measurements all around the house,  noting that everything was about the same as the last recorded values.  I explained that he had not done measurements after raising the northwest corner, but he found that the northwest corner had fallen about 1/2 inch anyway and agreed that work would be done.  I said I needed the work as soon as possible.  He said he would try to schedule it in two weeks.

I showed him the recorded pier depths and asked if that was a clerical mistake.  He said no, those were the actual depth values.  I asked them if it wasn't wrong that the five piers around the corner of the house were so much shallower than all the others.  He shrugged that off, saying it was "normal."

Daniel took great interest in small bits of erosion around my house and said I needed to watch those.  Actually there has not been any visible erosion around the northwest corner, only a small bit on the west side now.

In 2025, the Baird hired "Engineer" simply walked around the house once on the day of repairs, taking a couple minutes to do so, and said he trusted Daniel and his crew to do the right thing.

There were some small holes around the southern and western sides of the house, but he said I didn't much have to worry about those because the piers were very deep.

Despite that, in January 2026 I took great interest in filling all the newly formed holes in the soft backfill on the southwestern and southern sides of my house where the 2022 work had been done and putting a long row of pavers to deflect the water falling off the roof away from the house.  It has done a pretty good job, though I've sometimes needed to adjust the pavers slightly and fill some small holes resulting from rainwater not being fully deflected away from the house.  After my bad experiences with gutters in the front side of the house, where there are no leafy trees, I don't want to mess with gutters on the back side, and besides there is no sensible place to route a gutter downspout to.  The pavers simply deflect all the water across the front edge of the lawn there, distributing the water evenly across the back.

My Thinking

I asked Google if it was normal for adjacent piers used in foundation leveling to differ in depth by 20 feet.  Google replied that it was not normal, and could indicate that the shallow piers had not been driven into the ground sufficiently to hit load bearing strata, though it did sometimes happen because of unusual geology underground, like sinkhoses.  Normally it would happen on a steeply sloped lot where the shallower piers were on the low side of the slope, possibly because underground load bearing strata is even more steeply sloped.  Or in the case of an underground sinkhole, there would be a small number of deeper piers surrounded by the shallower piers.

About the piers not being sufficiently driven into the ground, Google linked to a Houston engineering company that checks out this situation, among others.  But I have not seen information about a San Antonio company doing this.

These are the exact opposite of my situation.  I am on a lot with a very low slope, and the shallow piers are on the higher side of the lot, and most of the piers are deep, with the only exception of the piers #1-5 done in 2025 by Daniel.

I think the most reasonable explanation is that Daniel did not drive the shallower piers sufficiently hard into the ground.  But nobody at Baird seems to want to take responsibility for this.  I sent an email and letter to the principle of Baird and she has never responded to this issue.  I spoke to the foreman Daniel who had himself been responsible for the shallow piers, and he dismissed this situation as normal.  His idea about the repair I requested was simply to re-adjust the 3 pier towards the west of the north side, including the corner.  He said that after that adjustment, there would probably be some settling again.  Yeah, right.

I don't think those 5 piers were driven into the ground sufficiently to reach the true load bearing strata.  They should have the same depth, if not slightly more, as all the other piers.

I think this was because Daniel himself didn't do the work correctly.

I think it may have been partly because he was freaked out by the nearly falling over patio cover, so he was doing things very gingerly, but he has never said that.  

In 2026 I replaced the patio cover with a freestanding one supported by it by footings 3 feet into the ground.  (Daniel was impressed.)  I was hoping that instead of sending Daniel out to do in-house measurements they would actaully send a new crew to check as well as adjust the corner pier and the piers surrounding it.  So I had prepared for the work to be properly done this time if not last.  But no work was done.  Instead, they sent Daniel out just to see if work actually needed to be done, rather than just taking my word for it.

Or, possibly, the soil on the northeast side of the house is simply harder than the soil around other parts of the house.  Perhaps any other foundation worker would have run into that same problem, it might not be Daniel's individual fault at all.

It might be, and probably is, because the approach of hydraulic ramming "piers" (which are just pipes, really) into the ground to the load bearing strata simply doesn't work when the ground is so hard it's near impossible just to ram piers sufficiently hardly into the ground.

They say they use the "weight of the house" to do that but it often isn't just the weight of the whole house, it is the weight of the house near the specific pier that is being rammed.  It's around 10 tons at most, not 100 tons.

In cases where the soil is very hard, they should probably drill through the soil rather than just trying to ram a pipe down into it.

And in fact there are such approaches often used in commercial construction.  Holes are often dug first with hole boring equipment, or screw type piers are screwed into the ground rather than just being pounded into it.

Household foundation repair, achieved simply by ramming jacks under the house, is likely sometimes not the correct approach.  And yet that is what household "foundation repair" companies like Baird do.

If I am correct, that the shallow piers were not driven deeply enough into the soil, it would probably not be wise to have Baird simply come back to "adjust" them.  They would simply settle back to the current position, or even worse if the additional digging causes additional weakness in the soil.  Basically, both the foundation footing AND the piers are just floating in soil, as they were before the foundation "repair" was done.  It has not really been repaired at all.  If anything, it has been made more vulnerable, and additional work would make it even more vulnerable.

I don't trust Baird anymore.  And I don't think anyone should trust residential "foundation repair" companies or their rubber stamp "Engineers" until they fully address these issues.

Probably it would be good to drill small holes into the soil to determine precisely where the load bearing layers actually are.

I was also unimpressed by the thin gauge of the pipes used in the piers in 2025.  They were so light that Daniel's assistant was often carrying 5 or more of them, each about 2 feet long at one time.  These are the pipes that are supposed to be supporting my house.

Garden Hand Scoop with plastic handles

Eight years ago I bought a garden hand scoop in a fairly premium brand, with a heavy plastic handle.  I've kept it in my garden shed ("Oakhurst") with my other garden tools.  I used it very infrequently.

For the past 4 years, it has become unusable because the vinyl plastic handle has been oozing sticky plasticizers.  If I merely pick it up I then have to wash my hands about 3 times before I get the sticky material off.

Meanwhile, a wood handled trowel I bought a few years later, is just like new, but it doesn't "scoop" very much soil at a time.

Perhaps it was just this brand (I can't remember what it was) but I'm not going to be buying any more plastic handled tools if I can avoid them.  Perhaps if I stored them in the house they would be OK, but that's a lot of trouble and I don't like to bring dirty garden tools into the house.  

Sadly there are few alternatives anymore, especially in garden scoops.  Smaller trowels are easy to find with wood handles.

The manufacturers should understand that I normally use such tools with gloves anyway, so I don't need "padded plastic handles."  I may even end up getting an all metal "ice" scoop.

Endlessly Increasing Monthly Charges

 As time has gone on, modern life seems to require more and more things that involve monthly charges.  And even if you do nothing, those monthly charges will keep going up and up.  I hate them.

Back in 1998, I paid Ranger American security $1200 for a new security system.  I wanted to be sure I paid for the whole thing, and had a local monitoring company.

Back then I had a plain old telephone system which cost about $30/month.  I was still using it as my primary phone service then (and until 2009).  My new security monitoring with Ranger American cost about $25/mo.

About a year later, Ranger American was bought by ADT.  When ADT took over, the monitoring charges went up to $30/mo.

Now, in 2025, my plain old telephone system, which the security system still requires, costs $95.76.  I never make landline telephone calls, in fact because the security system telephone device is slightly broken, and won't let go of the phone line anymore, I can't.  I only need the landline for my security system, which normally uses it about once a month for testing only (unless there is an alarm event, which there hasn't been in 19 years).

My ADT monitoring service now costs $83.36.  I have a very basic system not unlike what I installed 27 years ago, but just a few more sensors and an extra keypad.  No cameras, home automation, or anything like that.  Just the basics.  The price I'm paying seems to have nothing with the "standard" ADT rates you may see published, for which basic monitoring might cost $40.

Since I need both, the total monthly charges I am paying for security system monitoring is $179.12.  If that rate were to continue, I'd be paying $21,494.40 for the next 10 years of monitoring.  But it wouldn't continue at the same prices even if I let it continue, instead it would likely be increasing, just like before, so I'd be paying more like $50,000 for the next ten years of monitoring.

I'm beginning to feel like I felt when I summarily emptied my first storage building after ten years of storage.  After paying thousands of dollars for storage, all the stuff I stored went straight into the trash, since at most it would be worth about $100 at resale and I didn't have the time to bother with that.  I said "never again" but indeed, I rented another storage room a decade later for a few years until I built my own storage building (and don't ask how much that cost).

My phone system has never needed "service" in 27 years (and if it did, and if it were past my entry point, I'd have to pay for it).  I have called ADT for telephone help about ten times (in 27 years) and gotten repair service (included) twice.  I've had ADT installers out 4 times to add new sensors.  For that, and monitoring which has called police twice in 27 years, I've paid many thousands of dollars in monitoring fees.

ADT has simply raised the price every year, and tacked on a new monthly charge for each extra sensor added to the system, even if I pay for the sensor as completely as they allow me to do.

In truth there is no standard basic monitoring rate at ADT.  It's all negotiable and under a unique contract (or not) for each person.  If you want to keep your rates low, what you have got to do is call ADT every year, and ask for a lower rate.  You can only do this once a year.  Then, ADT will at most knock down the price at most about 15% so long as you sign a 1 year contract.  That's how you get the lowest rate they will choose to offer you.  You must stay "in contract" to get the lowest increases, otherwise they increase rates with a vengeance.   That's what it means whenever you have a service that has contracts that may expire.

If you don't continually negotiate the rates down, your rates will go up as much as 15% a year.  By continually negotiating the rates, they'll still go up, but not as much.  If you have failed to negotiate the price down every year, you'll be stuck with a higher price because they simply won't negotiate it down very much at any one time.  You have baked in a permanently higher price than new customers and there is nothing you can do about it except move to a different company.

With AT&T, I actually have no idea what they are charging me "for."  I haven't seen a paper bill in 25 years (I rue the day I told them they could send me bills electronically) because, it seems, it goes to an expired email.  But generally what happens is that they add new fees and pricing tiers and if you do nothing your tier continues to rise in the stack of pricing tiers as they add new ones.  I've been told I need to keep calling them to ensure I'm on the lowest service level tier I need.

It's this opaque pricing and lack of real standard rates, not to mention sky high prices for basic service that hasn't changed in decades, that has made me incredibly angry at both ADT and AT&T.  

(I'm equally if not more infuriated at cable TV companies like Spectrum but that's another long and sad story.  Cable companies are infamous for all their tricks, including promotional pricing, contracts, tiers, and bundling (programs you detest are always included with programs you want), which keep your monthly charges endlessly increasing.  Combined with endlessly needing repairs, replacements, and mandatory upgrades.  Meanwhile, they're constantly trolling at your home and elsewhere for new suckers with the pitch, "who is providing your service now"?  And, I have discovered, they may endlessly send you bills for service you never ordered and they refuse to read their returned mail no matter how many times you try to tell them, "not at this address."  Would I ever chose to do business with a company like that again?  Never.)

It seems like most of the service here is the service of requiring you to call the service company annually to keep the service charges from spiraling through the roof.  IOW, the lower cost service might cost them more, as it includes handling the required incoming phone call to get the lowest cost service.  (This reminds me of how computer systems are often dumbed down for the lower performance levels, thus the lower performance levels actually cost them more because of the required dumbing.)

I could have upgraded my ADT system so it doesn't require a landline anymore but uses cellular service.  That costs $250 for the equipment (when I asked) and would add at least $12  to the monthly charges.  And, of course, a new 1 year contract.

I did not do that because I've been planning to get out of these spiraling costs altogether for some time.  I just couldn't figure out how to do it.  I might have stayed with ADT if there really were a "Basic" rate around $40.  I told them I only had basic security, but they refused to lower my monitoring cost more than 15% from $83.36, and that would only be for 1 year.

Today I purchased a SimpliSafe system online.  There, too, people complain that the monthly charges have kept going up, and the "core" plan (virtually required for the first month of a new system) is $31.99.  There is a $21.99 plan...but guess what...you have to call them on the phone to get them to change it to that.  (It seems more and more stuff works this way, you have to call to get lower charges, and of course some telemarketer on the other side will try to convince you not to, if you can even get through to them.  I've had lots of trouble with such things in the past, it took a month to get ahold of XM radio by phone to get my XM radio service canceled, and there was no other way to do it)

Anyway, I put together a system virtually identical to my ADT system, with quite a few motion detectors and even glass break detectors.  It doesn't need a second keypad because it has a dongle.  The cost of all the parts was $800 which was reduced to $400 if I accepted a "free month" of core monitoring (and then $31.99 per month after that).

I had figured those sensors and other parts would come to about $3000 based on my experience of buying security system parts for my current system, and looking at name brand parts.

SimpliSafe parts are cheap enough that if they break you wouldn't feel too bad about just getting another one.  But they're supposed to be good, I've seen reviews that rate them #2 or even #1.

(SimpliSafe gets a higher score than ADT in these test, but they still rate ADT higher.)

Even with having to make a phone call to get the lowest rate, the SimpliSafe approach is far more transparent than ADT.  And if you need to, you can run the system you purchased with no monitoring and no monitoring charges at all.

**** Update

Have been using new SimpliSafe system for 5 days.  I have tested and re-tested every important feature.  It normally uses my Wifi to communicate with the monitoring center, but I tested cellular backup communications by unplugging modem, and still got an automated call when I entered test mode.  Success!  (I will have more to say, the good and the bad of SimpliSafe, in a review I am writing on my ComputerCritical blog.)

So I called 1-800-ADT-ASAP to cancel my ADT monitoring service.  This took 28 minutes on the phone.  The first agent verified my identity, location, phone number, and password, then I was to wait for second agent, who picked up 5 minutes later.  Second agent also verified address and passcode.  Both thanked me for my 27 years.  Second agent first offered $58/mo, then $29/mo.  I declined both offers and was told cancellation on June 14 (30 days).  I was warned my system would no longer work and would not dial emergency numbers.  (Of course, and btw I have never used those anyway.)

Both offers to extend current system were worthless because I'd immediately have to update my connection from landline to cellular, costing $250 and raising monthly price at least $12/mo, in order to cut out the now $95/mo landline charge from AT&T.  But I didn't discuss that issue.  I like the greater transparency of my new SimpliSafe system and my ability to add more devices and control them.  ADT could have offered me a lower price in January, which might have retained my business for another few years, but they only offered to knock down the price by 15% then, down to about $70, which itself would only get raised up again by the cellular device monthly charges.  Now it's too late, and I'm tired of their "negotiable" prices anyway.  It's clear you have to be very insistent on leaving to get their "best" price.

I was happy they didn't ask me if I was switching to another service and how much I was paying for it.  (Cable sellers typically do that).  ADT has the Olympian view that nothing else is comparable.  Fine, I can and will be the judge of that.

A few days later I canceled my AT&T landline service.   Despite making me very tense (getting rid of the now useless $95.76 monthly charges being on the line) it only lasted 12 minutes (seemed more like 40).  First I answered questions to the automated system, then I answered mostly the same questions again to a human agent.  They asked me the 3 digit account code on my bill.  But here's the rub: I haven't seen my AT&T bill for over 25 years, ever since I opted for electronic billing.  It must have been going to a defunct email address or spam filtered.  The fact that I was being charged $95 for a landline, and not knowing exactly what I was being charged for, has made me very very angry at AT&T.  As with ADT, I will likely avoid doing business with them in the future because of this unhappy era.

I rue the day I opted for electronic billing for ADT and AT&T.  DO NOT OPT FOR ELECTRONIC AND "AUTOMATIC" PAPERLESS BILLING, ONLY FOR ACCOUNTS YOU ACTUALLY PAY ONLINE AND THEREFORE CONTINUE READING THEIR BILLS (like credit cards).  The online AT&T agent was able to take the last 4 digits of my social security number in lieu of the 3 digit account code on my "bill" which I've never seen.  So they canceled my account as of today.  I got a confirmation code.  I hope this is the end of that (btw, 35 years of service at the phone number).

In theory, since SimpliSafe has only monthly contracts, pricing is transparent because everyone should be paying the same rate for the same service.  There aren't some people getting lower "rates" while their equipment is being paid off, then suddenly much higher rates afterwards, the usual trick which makes you think your long term costs will be low despite high initial charges.

The only way to go is to buy your own equipment, and get month to month service at a published rate.

New Era Has Dawned: New Dishwasher

OOPS?

I'd been expecting my Kenmore dishwasher, purchased in 1999, to fail any year since about 2006.

By that time, if not nearly since the beginning, it routinely made a loud grinding and squealing sound during draining especially but also mostly during regular operation.  You wouldn't want to talk over it.  I'm sure it wasn't as bad as an actual sawmill, but it did bring that to mind.

I was giving it up for goners by 2006 but then a friend told me about Lemi-Shine Machine cleaner.  I used it infrequently but enough to keep the machine going for 25 years until I had a major leak across the kitchen floor.  I figured the grinding had finally cut through the pump housing, or the plastic tub had cracked.  It would certainly not be worth fixing.

But just after my replacement machine was installed in November 2024, I noticed a tiny cut out part was left behind, which seemed to be a portion of the drain hose which had ruptured right next to the machine (inside the cabinet made for the dishwasher, so I couldn't see the problem).

So it's now looking like I didn't need to replace my Kenmore dishwasher at all.  If I had only thought about the possibility that it could be just a busted drain hose!

I had looked at the hose under the sink...but it probably busted right next to the machine where I couldn't see it.

But what if I had thought of that possibility (I should have just asked google what could cause a dishwasher leak) what could I have done?  It might have been hard to get appliance repair to even look at it.  Sears isn't around anymore, so I couldn't call Sears.  Independent repair people would say it's too old to get replacement parts, etc.  If I had gotten an appliance repair guy out here, it might have taken weeks for them to get around to it (appliance repair still hadn't come out in 3 weeks for my 13 year old Whirlpool washing machine before I finally decided to buy a new LG machine) they have a minimum charge for coming out and for doing an estimate.  You'd be lucky if that initial charge were only $200, I think it's usually more like $300.  The cost of the repair would probably be $250, for which they'd knock off $150 of the original $300 charge, leaving you with a $400 bill for replacing the hose.

If you knew that a busted hose was the issue, you could do it yourself, or just call a plumber who might fix it for around $250.  But normally a plumber would tell you they don't know anything about dishwashers.  And it might cost as much as $400 too.

So I don't know.  If I had known it was just the hose, I probably would have replaced the hose if I could get that done for $250.  But the dishwasher was long due for replacement anyway.  Besides the incredible noise it made, it didn't work at all with the new wash packs, it didn't clean very well even with liquid Cascade sometimes, and occasionally even left stuff that looked like plastic pieces dried to the glasses (I noticed that on a few pieces just before the leak).  I imagined it was falling apart internally.  I was wondering how much dishwasher micro plastic I'd consumed over the years.  It would be nice to have new dishwasher with stainless steel interior instead and newer parts that aren't deteriorating.  It might fail at some inconvenient time, such as over the holidays when I have a party scheduled.  I often thought about replacing it just for reasons such as those.  So it was probably a good thing to have it not just "fixed" with a new hose but completely replaced, using the $250-$400 repair cost going towards a long overdue new unit.

Deciding, or Lusting?

To be prepared for the decision I knew I'd soon need to make, I started looking at dishwashers in the Sears store at Ingram Park Mall around 2006.  Or perhaps it was as early as 2003.  I many many minutes looking at the dishwashers at that Sears store until it closed in 2017.   It was a convenient detour on my lunchtime stroll from the parking lot to the Luby's Cafeteria next door to Sears.  

I noticed how most dishwashers were converging on the very minimalist stainless steel look of the Bosch dishwashers, though Bosch is still among the most minimalist of them all in appearance (in the general lack of any control or displays visible on front).

And I often read and sometimes even clipped the Consumer Reports columns on dishwashers, at least to be prepared for the moment, any day now, when I might need to buy a new one.  I saw the Bosch dishwashers were, year after year, either at or adjacent to the top in Consumer Reports.

(Nowadays I am very frustrated that the Consumer Reports magazine only has limited content, most often in a kind of "top 5 summary", with the detailed reporting and complete lists only being online.  And since my email address has changed, I haven't been able to access my online account in decades.   Now it's associated t's associated my latest email with a freebee account, so I get none of the benefits of my 40 year full subscription, and I can't seem to change it to anything else.  Fortunately for me, and this seems to have been the case before, I was able to get a full listing of all Consumer Reports tested models, with summary ratings in each category, from Bosch themselves on their website.)

But other than taking a quick scan sometimes of the Consumer Reports summary info when an issue listed Dishwashers on the cover, I hadn't really been keeping up with dishwashers that much recently.  It's always been on the short list of things that might need replacement at any time.

But as I figured I'd probably do anyway, on the day after the dishwasher broke, I looked at all the information I could find, in the past copies of Consumer Reports, and elsewhere.  Finally I tracked down the complete list of Consumer Reports recommendations at the Bosch site, which was the most useful bit of information of all.

And Bosch are all the top winners, for their various Benchmark, 500, and 800 series machines for starters.

Now this is misleading as Consumer Reports often is.  The Benchmark model is shown with identical scores in all the major categories to the 800.  And the 500 series which is shown before the 800 series has a lower drying score, but Consumer Reports lets that fly because it's slightly cheaper and puts the 500 series ahead of the 800 series but the Benchmark highest of all, even though the Benchmark is basically a glorified 800.

If you want the top performance in all major categories, you want either the Benchmark or the 800 series, which both have Crystal Dry, the latest in Bosch drying innovations (which they've needed, since other goals like energy efficiency have reduced drying performance).

The main thing extra that the Benchmark has is the water softener, so if you don't need that, there's not much to justify the significantly higher price (though I've come to miss the readout time on the floor feature...it's a crying shame Bosch does not show remaining time otherwise, even the numbers on top turn off after awhile).

I'm leery of using a water softener because basically what it's doing is adding salt, which is not good for either people or metals.  (Some may have to, and it's probably ok.)

It turned out there was a "front controls" model, temporarily imported from Europe, of the 800 series but WITH the "water softener."  Getting those would be additional wait time, higher price, and Lowe's didn't even list them I'd need to go to Best Buy.  Lowe's had their own "exclusive model" but it seemed so different it could have been an earlier model, and I think it didn't have the front controls either.

If I had really wanted the water softener, I'd have gotten the Benchmark with time on the floor and everything.  But I felt I could live without all of that.

Delivery and Installation

When I was checking out the various Bosch 800 models available at Lowe's on Wednesday afternoon, the Lowe's website predicted Monday delivery of the model I had decided on, having the "pocket" handle (which has a flush face) rather than the model with a handle bar that sticks out, because the bar model was more expensive, and I worried about the bar coming down and decapitating a cat...but it turns out the Bosch doors do not "fall" down like the Kenmore door did, they need to be gently pushed down, and the Bosch door is so much lower than the Kenmore door that no cat could be even under the flat door, though being hit by the handle would still be worse...it nearly touches the floor).  The bar model also means you are more separated from the countertop above, which is where I do many cooking things including cutting and oiling.  The flush front is ideal for using the countertop above, and it's nicer to be working above or just looking at the flat stainless front of the Bosch than my old bulgy gaudy beige Kenmore.

Lowe's had an 'exclusive' Bosch 800 model which was cheapest of all, but it didn't seem to have the latest options (perhaps I didn't check everything carefully enough to be sure it wasn't the European model that had the "water softener", from the comparison chart it actually looked like it lacked the "water filter" that the regular Bosch pocket and bar models had, and there didn't seem to be a row for "water softener" because none of the models had it, and the exclusive model also did not have the front controls that the European model had...I'm completely fine with the top controls, maybe I even like them better because you don't have to stoop to see which options you are enabling, but I only wish they kept the time remaining visible).

I could have ordered Wednesday night, but there was a special offer that said you could get a full rebate of "basic" installation (that would not include the fee for disposal of the old unit, I presume) but only if you ordered the installation at a Lowe's store.  (Ordering installation at the store might be required anyway, but it certainly was required for this special offer.)  So I decided I would go down to Lowe's first thing after breakfast on Thursday morning and order the specific model I had decided on.

I started looking at some display models and the salesman came up.  I forgot to bring the card on which I had written down the exact model number I wanted.  No problem, he said, I'll just look it up for you.  He started flipping through the models on his tablet.  He usually seemed to focus on the Lowe's exclusive 800 model which was the cheapest of all.  I told him I had not seen the correct model, which I was pretty sure was selling for $1167.  He said it would be better on his main terminal.  So we went there, and once again he flipped through the models, and they didn't seem to match.  Except I noticed that as he was flipping through the 800 models, he started flipping immediately after it came up with the first page, which was only visible for a few seconds.  I asked him to let me try and flipped right to it, as I thought, it was the first one listed when you searched for Bosch 800 Dishwasher.

Whereas Lowe's Online had said they had over 100 units in stock, the salesman said they had 68 in stock.  (But that must be at some warehouse!)  But it would take until Wednesday for pickup at the store.

The salesman asked if I'd like to use my plumber.  Actually, I had not even though of that, but I told him I wanted the Lowe's Installation.  He told me I could possibly get it installed as soon as Friday next week, because Lowe's installers don't get paid until the work is done and so they are anxious to complete it.  (Lowe's doing fast installation is contrary to other stories I have heard, where people have had delays and issues going on for months.  But I hoped he was right and made the sale.)

He told me I should call some number on Monday to confirm I was on the list.  I thought he circled the number on the receipt, but when I checked the receipt on Wednesday the following week (because I had been to busy to call Lowe's until then, and I knew it wasn't getting done until Friday anyway) there was no circled number, in  fact I didn't see a number at all, just the store number.  So I called that and they told me to call the Lowe's Installation number (or perhaps I just figured that out myself from the website).

The Lowe's Installation number sounded like it was a national number not local, and the information was very disturbing.  For one thing the dishwasher had not yet arrived in store and would only be "available" on Thursday.  After it arrived, then I would get a call and arrange for installation.  I asked when I should get that call and they said by Friday.  Well, in that case, it didn't sound like I was going to be getting Friday installation.  I asked and they said probably not.

I was pretty downtrodden.  But it didn't last long.  It was just after 1pm on Thursday afternoon that I got a call from the actual installation contractor.  They left both a phone message AND a text.  Not expecting a phone call until Friday, I wasn't even looking at my phone, and didn't even notice I had both phone and text messages until around 4:45.  Now it looked like Friday had been possible after all, but I probably missed my Friday slot by not being on the ball, again.  Now it might have to wait until after Thanksgiving.  Damned!

In a state of panic, I ended up leaving the phone message first, and getting confused about the time (saying 1-3PM when actually they had said 12-3, which was better actually but at the time I was leaving the message I couldn't remember exactly what had been said I was so nervous about losing my slot).  Then I left a responsive text too, and simply saying "afternooon."  (I should have checked what they said first so no ambiguity.)

In about 15 minutes my text was answered, and I was given the afternoon slot, just as I had asked.  I was jubilant.

The installer actually arrived at 1:30, and took a look at the situation and determined I needed to have a new supply valve because the old one was broken.  I should have a plumber fix that then call him back.

So I immediately called my usual plumber, Primo Plumbing, and they first promised Monday but then called me back 15 minutes later with an available slot at 4pm, which I accepted.  So before 5pm, my plumbing was fixed and I then left a message at the contractor office and then after that I called the actual installer, who answered and said he'd make sure they got the message.

By 11am Saturday morning I got a text from the contractor saying that Monday would be available.  I did not notice that text until 11pm and then texted back that anytime Monday was fine and Tuesday afternoon also.  Once again I was worried I'd lost my first available slot.  So I was uneasy.  But by Sunday morning I got the reply that Monday was possible and they'd let me know the time later.  By 4pm on Sunday afternoon my appointment for 11-2pm was offered and confirmed.

The installer arrived around noon and was finished by 1:15, including the 15-minute "test clean."

Now that the plumbing was fixed, it was a piece of cake.  The plumber had replaced the dual valve with a single valve and T connection.  That's probably the usual thing nowadays and the installer said nothing about it.

The dishwasher was installed about as quickly as it could possibly have been installed!  It was almost a miracle I got my usual plumber to come out 90 minutes after the Lowe's installer determined a new cutoff valve was needed and so I got it done that very day.  Then it was another miracle I got the dishwasher installed on the very next business day.

I told the installer I had been worried this would take months.

I only noticed later that while I was doing all this messaging with the actual installer, a contractor, I was also getting calls and texts from Lowe's Installation, which I had (perhaps fortuitously) ignored.

Despite the installer saying it wasn't necessary, I ran a full empty cycle with the Normal cycle and Sanitary in the owners manual (which I dug up online, because strangely it wasn't included with the actual dishwasher--only the multi-language installation manual).

I should have chosen the Heavy Duty cycle with Sanitary option but the manual only said "with the highest water temperature and doesn't specify the Heavy Duty cycle as such, which made it confusing, I figured Sanitary would be the highest regardless but Heavy Duty Sanitary is just a bit higher.

This machine is so quiet, I wondered at first if it was even running.  The refrigerator makes far more noise.  Even the water filling is nearly silent.  I didn't expect that at all.  This is not just different and better than before, it's way better, it's like a miracle.

I ran my dishes which had in many cases been waiting for a wash for days on the Heavy Duty cycle, and I have never seen dishes come out so clean with my old dishwasher.

So perhaps I could have avoided it, but a new era has dawned, probably long overdue.

A Way Better Dishwasher

The Bosch Dishwasher is fantastic in many ways.  It's actually quiet (unlike all previous dishwashers I've had which were as noisy as hell).  It seems completely sealed so that no moisture or smells are emitted during washing or otherwise.  That means I can run it while I'm in the kitchen doing other things and not be bothered by Dishwasher Fog as with the old Kenmore, despite the Kenmore claiming automatic sealing as a feature right on the front panel.  It's like the Kenmore was only "virtually" sealed, whereas the Bosch is actually sealed.  I'm sure this helps make the Bosch quieter too.

The Kenmore had an active vent system that supposedly closed during operation but never did close very well.  The kitchen would always get more humid when the dishwasher was running, and I'd worry about all the chemicals in the detergent getting into the air too so I'd open the outdoor vent (my motorized kitchen vent) or run it late at night.

It seems to get the dishes cleaner, and possibly even dryer than the Kenmore did.  (I always used the Kenmore on no-heat drying, the Bosch never uses electric heat in drying, just the optional patented CrystalDry if you select it, which I do.)

It looks very very nice in all stainless steel (which is lacquer coated so dirt just wipes off...and use of an abrasive stainless steel cleaner would ruin it).

I was worried that the racks would work as well as the Kenmore did for my quirky set of dishes, but I was wrong, the racks work just fine, maybe even better.

Downsides.  As might be expected, the basic German Engineering is wonderful but the user interface features are crap.  (I feel similar dissatisfaction with the user interface of asian products.  US manufacturers don't have perfect interfaces either, but often they are better.  My Whirlpool washer had very intuitive controls, and I replaced it with an LG which is at least as good, will hopefully last longer, but has overcomplicated and unintuitive controls, which I recall is typical with Samsung as well.)

1) There is no built-in time delay feature.  With the Kenmore I simply pressed the "delay" button once for each hour of delay I wanted, and it showed up on the time indicator.  I'd think any dishwasher above the base metal level should have this feature.

But with the Bosch, to use a time delay or scheduled start you must use the Bosch smart device app known as Home Connect.  This is much more complicated and inconvenient.    

You have to go through all the usual crapola to install the app on your phone.  Then the app will decide your dishwasher needs a firmware update, and you need to wait for that too.  Then finally you have to agree to let the app Start your dishwasher by enabling the permanent remote start mode.  The app advises you that there may be risks, but you need to do this for the optimum experience.  Basically that means doing time delay starts and time starts.  You must either give the app permission each time or enabling permanent remote start.  I wouldn't have wanted to give the app this permission, but I ultimately had to.

I tried to use the app time delay without enabling permanent remote start and nothing happened.  I got no notifications, no button appeared telling me I needed to enable remote start.  It simply didn't start.

I'm not giving Bosch any extra credit for having an app.  Sure it enables controlling the a few complicated features that would be more difficult to control on the device itself.  But dealing with an app makes everything more complicated.  I'd be much happier if Bosch simply made the regular controls easier to use.

And all Bosch would have had to do is add one more button for the same kind of time delay convenience I used to have with my Kenmore.  And then I might never need or use the app at all.  The default settings (which can also be controlled on the dishwasher itself) are fine.

It looks like at one time they did have such a button, but on the most current generations of Bosch dishwashers the time delay button has become the Home Control App button.  The Home Control App button could have been some kind of menu item instead.  Or just have another button, but that might have required an expensive redesign like the one Boeing failed to do for it's Max planes, but probably not quite that expensive.

2.  There is no built-in indication of the time remaining before the wash is complete.  Almost all dishwashers have this, but it would deviate from the austere minimalism of the Bosch exterior design.  Now in many ways, I like the Bosch exterior design.  But I'd like it better if instead of giving me a little light telling me the dishes are being washed, it gave me a readout of the estimated time remaining.

Now Bosch does have a digital time readout, but it's on the top edge of the door where it's normally hidden by the countertop when the door is closed.  I could still read it anyway because the gap between the dishwasher door and the countertop is just wide enough for me to see it at a steep angle but still readable.  But that digital time readout simply stops when the dishwasher is running, so even though I could have read it, I can't.  And there is no option to keep that display going when the dishwasher is running.

Instead, you can read the estimated time remaining in the app.  Once again, that's a lot more inconvenient that just reading it on the dishwasher itself.  Also in the Home Page of the app, the display time doesn't show continuously, it flashes very sporadically like 1 second every 30 seconds.  You have to press on the big blue option block to get to the page where it shows the percentage completed, finish time, and time remaining (that's nice, but just time remaining would have been sufficient).

Now, it the much more expensive Benchmark model you do get a time remaining indication from the actual dishwasher.  But even that is not on the dishwasher itself.  It's projected onto the floor and called TimeLight.

The back story here is ridiculous.  Since the dawn of electrical devices, they have had lights that indicate when they are running.

But, incredibly, Bosch was so into their minimalist aesthetic that they did not bother with such things.  Instead, for the pricier models, they invented InfoLight which projects a dot of red light onto the floor when the dishwasher is running.  Integral to InfoLight is that you can turn it off with a setting option, if you didn't happen to want a dot of light projected on the floor (I'd rather not call any more attention to my worn out floor personally).

I thought I'd rather have a light on the unit itself, and it turns out that the particular 800 model that I purchased, the InfoLight is actually just a light on the door.  Even within the 800 series, there are some models that project InfoLight on the floor and some that just have it as a light on the door.  But it is still called InfoLight and you can turn it on or off with the same setting used for other Bosch models.

Ok, I'm fine with a light on the door telling me that the dishwasher is running.  I don't even have a compelling reason to turn it off.  I find it very amusing that a "light on the door" has a trademarked name.  I love to enunciate InfoLight in a deep radio announcer voice.  What a concept!

But on the pricier Benchmark models, InfoLight is replaced by TimeLight where it projects the remaining time, in digital clock format, onto the floor.  (I don't think there is a Benchmark model where they have the TimeLight on the door, where it would be just like the remaining time indicator on my old Kenmore and probably most dishwashers.)

You can call it whatever you want, but a small digital readout of the elapsed time on the door would be nice.  Or just don't turn off the indicator that is on the top edge of the door.

And I have one other complaint, though I think it's part of the deal of having a better dishwasher:

3.  The dishes get as dry as they did with the Kenmore.  But the inside of the dishwasher has condensed water on the sidewalls.  I think this is because water condenses more easily on stainless steel than on the plastic liner of my old Kenmore.  And it is much better sealed.  Also because of the better sealing, if you keep dirty dishes inside the Bosch for very long, it begins to stink when you open the door,  more than the Kenmore did.

One More Thing

In every way, my installer seemed competent and professional.  I'm not going to fault him for what I am about to describe at all.

But I don't think an electrician would be very fond of the way the dishwasher is wired into my electrical system.  It uses, I think as installed by the original home builder in 1982, a "floating electrical box." An electrician would tell me that it's against electrical code, even though builders built a lot of homes that way.  The wires come out from under the wall and go into a sealed electric box resting on the floor.  Current electrical code requires all electrical boxes to be "permanently attached to the structure."  Well, actually, by this time the "floating box" is essentially permanently attached to the structure, via debris left by generations of carpenter ants.  I bet you'd have to pry it off the floor.

I was wondering about this floating electrical box and asked the installer.  He said that he found such a "floating box" about 70% of the time, and it was perfectly fine and legal for him to plug the dishwasher into it.  He said I could return the interconnection box that Bosch had provided in the event there was no plug for him to plug into, but only a bare wire from the wall.  Since I already had "a box" I didn't need it, I could use my Bosch Dishwasher with the attached electrical cord plugged into the outlet that was already there, atop the floating box.

This setup is still a concern, which I now feel is best addressed by changing the dishwasher breaker to a GFCI.  That is not currently the case in my house.  It is also currently required by electrical code.

If I live to see this dishwasher replaced, I will consider putting in an actual wall outlet behind it.

New Dishwasher and Rinse Aid

I'd been expecting my 1999 Kenmore dishwasher to fail any day now since about 2006.  It was then that Debby, a nice lady at work, told me about Lemi-Shine Machine Cleaner.  Thanks to Lemi-Shine machine cleaner, my Kenmore dishwasher kept running for 25 years.  Whenever it was getting super noisy, I'd run a cleaning cycle and it would be back to normal.

I had also bought some of the Lemi-Shine Power Booster (which can also be used as machine cleaner) and I was using that up (the combination of Power Booster and Cascade was leaving crud on my glasses even after one cleaning cycle, so I'm not going to do that again).

Perhaps it was coincidence, but on about the 3rd day in a row I used Power Booster, the motor was sounding as quiet as brand new...but it started leaking.  Water ran down the kitchen floor towards the sliding glass door (because it slopes slightly that way).  I mopped it up right way with towels, this could have wrecked my 30 year old kitchen run under the kitchen table.  (I can see why dishwasher leaking is such a big concern now.)

Researching dishwashers, I decided to get a Bosch 800, is among the most highly rated at Consumer Reports and Elsewhere.  Actually CR rates the Bosch Benchmark series the highest, then lists the Bosch 500 series because it is cheaper even though it doesn't have the rated drying performance of the 800 (that's the key difference, because the 800 has CrystalDry) and it's not better in any other way either.  So basically, if you want the best (and don't care much that you could save a couple hundred bucks) it's between the 800 and Benchmark models.

The benchmark models are a lot more expensive.  That gives you quieter (probably just more insulation), the "on" light reflected on the floor shows the time remaining (which you could also read on top), a

lighted interior, and one actual performance feature: water softener.

Strangely the addition of the water softener made no difference in the CR rated washing or drying performance of the Benchmark vs 800 models.  Sometimes water softening agents (salts) are included in cleaning pods, might be included in rinse aids, and rinse aids already virtually eliminate spotting.

What I see is a lot greater complexity here, with potential downside risks.  Always mixing in salt (which might be redundant anyway given your rinse aid) would not be good, I would think, for all the metal parts (even if stainless).  I suppose we're not talking about 10 years, but what about 25 years?

I even worry that the reduced sound level might be achieved while trapping greater heat in the motor, causing it not to last 25 years either.

Now these sorts of estimates could always be wrong.  Sometimes the most deluxe models are not just the same stuff with a bit added on, but better basic parts, or perhaps built on a different line where more care is taken.  The cheaper models may include the parts that didn't make the grade for the top.  Etc.  One never knows.

But I decided I could do without the extra Benchmark features and costs.  Also, there was an 800 model that was temporarily imported from Europe because US production was lagging demand.  That model takes longer to get from any source.  I don't recall seeing them listed at Lowes at all but at Best Buy,

and the soonest delivery was almost a month away.  You had to really dig to find the info on that model.

One unquestionable advantage of the imported 800 was that it also included the "water softener" (which is basically just a dispenser that dispenses salt in the water).   I would have to pay slightly more and wait a month longer for a feature I have concerns about and don't really need.

Lowes also had an "exclusive" model of the 800, which didn't seem to have any different features at

all, simply a lower price.  I wanted to go with the standard 800 as rated in Consumer Reports.

Along with all this, I did notice in another Consumer Reports article that Miele is the brand most highly rated for reliability of all (though this was for all products, not just dishwashers).  But Miele didn't actually rate very well in CR's tests, and they didn't get good ratings from Lowes customers either--who often complained about installation issues.  It seems to me if you're getting a superpremium luxury product like Miele, you should get it from an elevated dealer, like Ferguson for example, and have it installed by certified plumbers.  And not even buy such a product if your city doesn't have Miele service (which San Antonio does).  This is probably going to add $500 to the cost, but if you're buying Miele you shouldn't be fretting about that.  (Yes, the Miele does have a water softening system too.)

There's a general principle and that's to stick with the main line.  The further off the main line you go, the greater issues and risks.  At Lowes, the Bosch 800 is the upper part of the main line, but still the main line.  They stock as many (or nearly so) as all the other models.  They were shown as having 68 in stock.  Miele is nearly a special order for Lowes, not something every installer is necessarily going to be familiar with.

But all this about dishwashers and water softeners got me thinking about rinse aids.  I haven't been 100% in keeping my rinse aid dispenser full, more like 5% maybe, but I think it does help a lot.

For the fancy energy saving dry (I've always used no-heat dry as I think it saves wear on the machine) the rinse aid is more important than ever.

Bosch is known for recommending Finish rinse aid, which may well be the one I've usually bought.

By many accounts, Bosch recommends that brand not because others would be harmful, but because Finish pays them for that endorsement.

Anyway, now that I'm paying more attention to ingredients, and based on reviews, availability, and cost I've purchased Ecover rinse aid.   It's in the "better" group that has excellent performance as well as not having toxic ingredients.  The "best" group has the safest ingredients of all, but doesn't work as well and pricey/hard to find.

The actual dishwasher detergent stuff is rinsed off.  But the rinse aid is part of the rinse water, and some eventually dries on your dishes (even though the whole point of rinse aid is that as little dries on your dishes as possible).

Sliding glass door "lubrication" with pure dimethicone

In October 2023 I shattered the stationary part of my sliding glass door by trying to drill out the pin hole larger.  Apparently this drilling hit the glass envelope (so that's why the pin was so hard to get in) and shattered it.

I had to seal up the back with plastic sheeting until I could get repaired, which I did pretty quickly.  I also complained about the sliding part dragging and advanced that I needed new rollers (and so they also replaced them).  The rollers were the originals, now 40 years old.  (I wasn't sure afterwards if that was really necessary, perhaps cleaning and lubrication would have been sufficient, the original rollers looked like they might have been better made.)

The door worked great for awhile, and I am convinced now that the pin locking method, combined with some house settling, forced the wheels down into a lower position where they started dragging.  So possibly you should not use pin locks for windows with rollers, and especially not where there is known house shifting.

But without regular cleaning (and "lubrication" ?) a year later the door was getting increasingly difficult.  I tried vaccuming and olive oil (which oxidized right away) and then I tried adjusting to make it better.  I tried to adjust the opening gap as you are supposed to, but it was hard to get there.  Then for awhile I was simply cleaning the track with isopropyl alcohol, which seemingly needed doing each time.  Finally, after a last bit of adjusting, the door completely froze up.  I called the sliding door company again.  For nearly a week I couldn't use the back door at all, which meant I didn't go to the backyard or to Lyndhurst.  I didn't refill the birdbath.  Oh, sure I could use the side gate, but I'd have to get dressed and bring my Zap cane in case of dogs (there have been dogs on the street and walking by my house these past few months).

The sliding glass door company came out and fixed it for free (apparently there was a warranty of some kind for a year or so, I didn't even know).  Two strong guys lifted the door out of the track (it was not easy and I don't think I could do it myself as I had been planning to before) and found that one of the rollers had been adjusted too far so it came out of it's thread and was now just dragging.  They adjusted the opening (but in the end, I think they simply had to adjust the back up all the way and the opening wasn't really any better than before).  I did some more track cleaning while they were busy.  It wasn't clear if they used some kind of lubricant (but I'm thinking they did on the door wheels axles themselves, which is where it really counts).

They told me I should keep the track clean and lubricated with Silicone Spray.  My friend Noelia is always telling me I should "just use Vaseline and that will fix it).  Some experts say track lubrication isn't really necessary, it's the wheels that need lubrication and the track is supposed to stick just a little so the wheels turn--and that was my go-to opinion until now.

I continue to believe now my biggest failing was not keeping the track clean.  When I started working on the door, and prematurely adjusting the wheels first, I found the rack was full of cat hair and dirt which took multiple cleanings to get off.

But I decided to research the lubrication question.  Silicone Spray is indeed what most manufacturers and installers recommend.  Some recommend graphite.  Just a few recommend Vaseline or oils, but Vaseline and oils are more often criticized for attracting dirt.

I began to wonder, "What if I could do the cleaning and lubrication in one go, that would make sense."  And indeed there is a product just like that, recommended by more than Vaseline.  You may have heard of it.  Pledge.

Now some picky furniture people say to NEVER use Pledge and the stuff should be taken off the market.  It seems some fancy wood finishes (and not bog standard Urethane) are made cloudy by repeated use of Pledge.  (Actually, many commercial polishes also contain a bit of silicone too, for a smoother finish.)

But on Urethane coated wood, which is essentially sealed in plastic, you can use anything, even water (if there are no gaps...).  So Pledge should be fine with that, Pledge will make it nice and slick.

It turns out (and I knew this before) that the old fashioned Pledge formulations contain silicone!  That's what gives the smoothness and shine--silicone in the form of Dimethicone.  This is the same stuff that's in silicone spray.

Now you should never use standard WD-40 for any lubricating purpose (it's a protectant and water displacer) but the same company, under the label "WD-40 Professional" makes a Silicone Spray which is "perfect" for sliding glass doors.  If you go to Lowes looking for a Silicone Spray, that's what you will find.

Now that's what the installer might recommend (and maybe what they used on the wheels, but I didn't see them use anything) but I got to thinking Pledge would be better, as I could do the cleaning and "lubricating" in one go, every week or so.

If you ask google AI, it will tell you Pledge is a fine way to lubricate your sliding door track, but there are other options.  (In a long thread I read, some manufacturer recommends Endust, which has no silicone but another kind of polishing ingredient.)

I had a new liquid pledge on hand but it turns out it's a "cleaner" only with no silicone (Everyday Clean Multisurface PH Balanced cleaner).  SC Johnson has now bifurcated the Pledge products into two kinds, the cleaners and the polishes, and only the polishes contain Dimethicone, so that way you can easily avoid it (though I see no reason to).

Then I started looking at the ingredients in these products.  I quickly came to the conclusion that the Dimethicone (which is used in many personal care products and cosmetics) may well be the safest ingredient there.  Dimethicone is used in drugs too, and it's the core ingredient in stomach gas relief products.

It's the other stuff in the Pledge products I have more concerns about.  In future, I see no reason not to use HEB Field & Future cleaner, which seems to have the safest list of ingredients of all, be non-acidic, available without fragrances or dies (why can't we get those out of everything!).  The Pledge multipurpose cleaner is better than many previous generations of cleaners, just not quite as good as as Field & Future in terms of ingredients, in my judgement.  But no reason not to use it up either.

Then I looked at the WD-40 Professional Silicone Spray, but it's worse.  Sure the Dimethicone is there and it's safe, but the rest of the stuff is a pile of awful petroleum based propellants.

I then decided on an all new approach (still not tried as I've been sick for a few weeks and haven't actually cleaned the sliding door track weekly as hoped or even monthly yet--it's just about a month since the repair and the door still slides like glass).  First I'll do the cleaning, with any cleaner safe on aluminum and steel (even that Pledge multisurface cleaner, or the HEB "Field & Future" brand household cleaner (which, btw, is excellent and about the safest cleaner you can get, even safer than the Lemishine cleaner I used to get because the latter contained a chemical now banned in EU).  Then, after the cleaning, I'll lubricate by rubbing in a few drops of dimethicone spaced along the track.

It turns out you can simply buy pure "Cosmetic Grade" Dimethicone in a bottle, and I also got a dropper for it.

Bathroom Vanities

Why isn't my bathroom vanity at the same height as my kitchen countertops, I was thinking years ago.  That height is 36 inches.

In fact, that's exactly what Ferguson recommends for a master bathroom vanity.

(Both of my vanities are at 29.5 inches high.  That must have been the builder's default or cheapest option.  30 inches is the recommended height for a kid's vanity.)

At the 29.5 inch high bathroom vanity I always have to bend down.  It's terrible for my back.

But I've got so many other unfunded priorities now:

1) New oven

2) Carport

3) New Patio and cover

4) Additional foundation piers around (existing) patio

5) Complete the garage conversion (after Carport)...currently 1/2 of the garage is converted to a bonus room.

And big things may need to be replaced soon:

1) Car (!!!)

2) Dishwasher (still going after 24 years)

3) Refrigerator (still going after 14 years)

4) Central Air Conditioner (3 years left on 10 year warranty)