Lights, lights, bug lights

Still thinking about mosquito traps, could buy some outdoor traps any day now.  One issue is that all the units I am interested in require A/C power.  I have only one fully suitable AC power outlet on the side of Lyndhurst.  I could power one trap in that vicinity easily, but not other traps elsewhere, without adding additional outlets, an additional expense.  Although, right now I keep Lyndhurst doors open for outgassing, I can just run wire out, until I close doors sometime in October, then worry about additional outlet wiring next year.

But in a way the more bewildering decision is how to re-do the security lights, now that it has become clear the old security lights were a big part of the mosquito equation because they attract tons of bugs, including mosquitos.

I've already planned and purchased 12 small solar lights for lighting trees and such around the perimeter of yard.  Current backyard security light didn't even do that very well, but did do a good job of lighting out to 25 feet from house.

The front and back door lights need not even be security lights anymore.  I could have pole light somewhere in yards for that purpose, keep from attracting bugs near door.  But that involves a lot of planning, work, and expense.  I could easily imagine spending $2000 on front and back pole lights, including new electrical installation.

So in the short term, it makes sense to continue using front and back door lights with a continued security function, if not identical performance with existing lights, but using less bug attracting lights.

So soft back lit sconces are probably out.  But a open light taking standard screw in bulbs (which seems to be A21) either as a panoramic light-in-a-box or as quasi-spots would work using bulb bolbs, which are commonly available in A21 incandescent, CFL, and LED.  I had been thinking also of real spot-light type LED bulbs, but I'm having a hard time finding suitable outdoor "wet" lamps to hold them.

Here is a two A21 bulb quasi-spot bulb, very traditional, and traditionally inefficient with incandescent bulb.  Light is only emitted out of the type of the bulb cover, and A21 bulbs emit light all around, so much light energy is wasted.  Still, it could do the job with two bug lights of some kind.  With suitable LED bulbs, it would be quite efficient.

A friend liked my idea of modifying the existing panoramic lights with transparent yellow filters.

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Took a look at Lowe's today and they have standard outside dual floodlights in white or black.  Also available in both colors with dusk-to-dawn photosensor intended to work with halogen bulbs.  The non-photosensor variety is also available with short bulb covers or the full sized bulb covers.  The photosensor variety had full sized bulb covers, which I suspect are compatible with PAR38 lights.

I'm thinking the photosensor ought to work with dimmable LED floods.  They had some nice looking 15W floods by Sylvania in 2700K.  They also had GE's and a few others.  It didn't seem hard to find 2700K lights, though typically integrated CFL/sensor lights use 5000K and up fluorescents which I now know are bug magnets.

more mosquito and light links

I spent two hours on my backyard patio on Saturday night with security light turned off, and no mosquitos or other bugs bothered me, though I did notice a couple of disoriented mosquitos which could have been disoriented by Mosquito Cognito.

I turned on the light to watch the sprinklers when I cycled them on for a few minutes to check the tree coverage.  In just a two minutes, I had several mosquitoes after me, and ducked back into the house.

I am thinking this shows that the security light is bad for attracting bugs, including mosquitoes, and is better if it can be replaced somehow.  I set up my first 27 lumen solar powered wide angle spotlight from Target on the back of Lyndhurst as an uplight, and it works great.  I have purchased 11 more similar lights, including 5 more identical 27 lumen units, 4 different wide angle spotlights from Frontgate which might even be better, and 2x 20 lumen rock lights.  One idea is that with good enough perimeter lighting, need for central security light is reduced or eliminated.  And it looks much prettier too.  The big security light makes the fabric security shield around my patio opaque, so it doesn't actually improve visibility from the window, can actually see farther with the light off, though it might give intruders a sense of being watched.

I can see why Mosquito Cognito is not recommended for indoor use.  It's quite smelly.  And it gets much much worse if you turn the unit upside down to install the scent cartridge.  Then any part which has already been liquified will spill right onto the floor.  It was a good thing I did this in the garage, as I had only the hard garage floor to clean up, and I did that with scads of wet and dry paper towels.  The unit is designed so that you can install the cartridge right side up, then no spilling.  It took about two days for the smell to fade away from my garage.  Perhaps I got a bit of extra mosquito protection from that.  As I was cleaning up spilled Mosquito Cognito in the garage, there was clearly a mosquito in there.

The indoor Dynatrap 3 has been successful in catching a few mosquitoes inside my house.  But it failed to catch the one that was bothering me for several days in the master bathroom--a key test.  Finally, I killed that one with the Lentek Koolatron bug zapping wand.  I've decided you always need one of those close to hand.  I gave a couple of them to my friends.

Here's a link describing that you can grow lemongrass, marigold, and even citronella around your home to deter mosquitoes.

Here's the best link I've found arguing that warm white LED's are ignored by bugs, but not true for cool white.

Here is some discussion of natural mosquito and bug repellants.

No Mosquitoes Inside on Wednesday morning

I got home from work on Wednesday morning at 1:00 AM.   I closed the garage door using the remote in my car as soon as I had finished pulling in the car.  Usually I close the door only after I have gotten out of the car and shut off the security system, but why leave the garage door open longer than necessary?  Leaving the garage door open allows bugs, possibly including mosquitoes, to enter.

I then decided not to open the back door of my house (a sliding glass door that exits the kitchen and enters the patio).  I have a very bright 27 watt fluorescent security light above that door which always attracts lots of bugs.  I'm now thinking that when I go out there at night, and then come back into the house, mosquitos in the vicinity follow me back in.  I reprogrammed my Rainbird controller in the garage to water the trees at 3am for 15 minutes, and enjoyed watching through the bedroom and kitchen glass when it ran.  This was the first watering since the rainfall on early Sunday morning; I skipped the Tuesday AM watering.  Since I am now worried about mosquitoes, I appreciated greatly not having to go into the back yard to do the watering by hand.

I also put a towel underneath the front door of my house.  The gasket under the door is in very poor condition, and conceivably a mosquito could fly underneath the door.

But in order to get the mail, I did go out and return through the front door, which has the same kind of bug attracting security light as in back.  I could do better on that by getting the mail before I pull the car into the garage.

It occurs to me now that the security lights front and back are a key issue in allowing bugs and mosquitos to enter house.  It would be good to redesign them somehow so that bugs do not swarm near the doors of the house.  Here are some ideas:

1) Get new lights that don't attract bugs so much.  This much require new fixtures also.  I haven't seen anything yet that I'd like.  What I'd like is an LED light with brightness equivalent to what I get with a 27W fluorescent, with automatic lightsensing switch.  This would run on household AC.

2) Get new lights in a different location(s) so the lights by the doors can normally be turned off.  If a new light is positioned at least 10 feet from the door, I don't think bugs would be as much of a problem.  Then I could also put mosquito traps in between the new lights and the doors.

3) Put the door lights on an X10 switch so they can be turned off a few minutes before using the doors.  Then, at 9 in the morning, my X10 central controller can turn them back on again, ready to provide security the next day.  The problem with an ordinary switch is that I always forget to turn it back on until days or even weeks later.

For the front and back security lights, I do like always-on lighting, which I believe provides better deterrence than motion detector based.  Motion detector lights,  especially the solar powered kind, are great in a pinch, for temporary lighting, but not as good for deterrence I think.

Just in Time Weekend

On Friday evening I pressed onward to make a new software release.  I did get it done but didn't leave until 1am instead of my usual midnight.  I still got home in time to re-program the Rainbird system not to water my trees on Saturday at 3am.  Since it waters twice on Thursday, early morning and evening, a re-watering of the trees wouldn't make sense until Sunday at 3am, just over two days later.

On Saturday afternoon I hauled 6 bags of topsoil and one bag of sand from the driveway (where I had hurriedly stashed them on Thursday night, hidden just barely behind the trash cans) to Palmhurst for safe storage.  I also hauled several Xeripave pavers to Palmhurst.  The pavers I had placed temporarily on the driveway were forcing me to leave the trash and recycling cans pushed way out from the garage door, which wouldn't be good for my end-of-the-month party during which one guest likes to park in the driveway.

Then, I pruned the Viburnum near the northwest corner of the back yard because it was looking waterlogged and prone to fungus.  It had several branches on the ground, many rotten leaves on the ground, and there was no good ventilation underneath.  I cut back the branches and leaves so the ground is visible from all sides and no leaves are touching the ground.  I cut off some of the yellowed leaves.  On Monday afternoon it was looking very nice again, so I think I did the right thing.

I also put on my full face respirator and swept the garage, which had gotten very dusty during the installation of the Rainbird controller (much of the dust being nasty sheetrock dust from cutting the hole in the wall) and hadn't been swept in about 6 months anyway.

Looking at the clouds I checked the forecast and decided to close the doors to Lyndhurst.

I had been planning to do more garden work this weekend, but on Friday evening I decided instead to see two plays that a friend had told me about, so after getting up and  ordering tickets online on Saturday afternoon around 3pm, there wasn't much time.  I just barely got to the Jump Start theater to watch the play The Importance of Being Earnest at the 8pm showtime.  Near the end of the play, an intense thunderstorm started.  It was still an intense downpour when the play let out, so I holed up in the nearby brewpub until midnight, when there was a three hour break in the rain.  At 3am the rain started in force again, ulimately dropping more than 1.5 inches.  So it turned out to have been very wise and timely to have done all the things I did, otherwise I'd have had soggy topsoil, wet pavers needing a few more days to dry out, a sticky garage floor, and a rotten viburnum surrounded by mud.

The rain came just in time, too.  During the great tree planting on the previous Thursday, I had been hoping for promised rain that weekend but none had arrived.  So now, mid August, and finally my trees got a good raining.  Now it looks really good that all of them, with only the possible exception of the sickly looking Wild Olive with just a few leaves still functioning, will come through my outlandish summer planting just fine.

There wasn't any time for me to do anything on Sunday before getting to the play Who's Afraid of Virginia Woolf at 2:30.  I did get there on time and it was a long play.

But after that I was a bit out-of-sync.  I went to North Star Mall afterwards to have my combined dinner and lunch just after 6pm, only to find that North Star Mall no longer has a Luby's Cafeteria where I had been planning to fill up.  So I ate at Subway and had ice cream at Marble Slab because I was still hungry.  The mall was closing at 7pm as I was leaving, and then I went out to Gabriel's Liquor Superstore on 1604, where I'd been meaning to go for 8 months (!) to get a special kind of tequila (single barrel) that I had been introduced to at the company Holiday Party last year.  I had some difficulty finding the store amidst all the new construction and developments up there and was worried that by the time I got there, well after 7pm, they would be closed.  Well, I needn't have worried, since it turned out they were closed all day Sunday.  That meant it would have been more timely to go to Home Depot to buy new garden gloves instead.  I wasn't sure how late Home Depot would be open.  I got to Home Depot at 8:04 and seeing cars still in the lot was relieved.  But it turned out they had closed at 8pm.  So I got a different type of gloves at Target instead. It was very hard to find any work gloves at Target.  I spent much time thinking about the discontinued solar lights on sale and finally bought one of those too.  Then I did my weekly grocery shopping.  The best part of Sunday was that my lady friend finally called me around 11pm, after a week of worrisome lack of calls and ambiguous texts.  She had been apparently suffering from the milder form of West Nile Fever, and lacked energy all last week.  I myself had just been thinking about mosquitos all last week (see earlier posts).  Coincidentally, her daughter had just named a new cat Kronos.

On Monday afternoon I did some work on the AC drain which wasn't draining very well at the terminus of the new 30 inch splashblock which had replaced the original 12 inch one.  A few years back I dug an artesian drain of sand going out 5 feet, but it has since been covered with clay soil and the new splashblock wasn't connecting well with the subsurface sand...making it a possible breeding pool for mosquitos, I feared (though it wasn't exactly still water, it might be still enough).  I dug up the grass and clay soil at the terminus of the block.  There was still sand underneath the soil, I was pleased to see.  I replaced the soil and grass I dug up with more new sand to restore proper drainage away from the house.

I did NOT use any kind of pesticide on the block, because I have seen dragonflies drinking there, and I had just learned from reading on Sunday night that dragonflies (which I had always thought were just a nuisance) actually eat mosquitoes.  No wonder there were so many dragonflies in my yard last week.  I now realize it wasn't just me with my new sprinklers suffering from mosquitoes.  In fact the whole state of Texas is having an epidemic of West Nile fever from an intense outbreak of mosquitos everywhere, and they're even spraying for mosquitoes in Dallas (which I think is a very bad idea because it also kills the dragonflies and honey bees).

Instead, I ordered some natural bacterial mosquito control which is toxic to mosquito larvae but not to pets or anything else, and I plan to put some on the splash block periodically, and perhaps in other areas around the yard that tend to stay moist too long.  I also ordered some electronic mosquito wands that are claimed to be the best of their kind, and only $6.50 apiece.  You may recall last week I ordered what appeared to be the best indoor mosquito trap.  It hasn't arrived yet but actually there are no mosquitos haunting me inside now, I think the last one finally died or left.  I've been investigating outdoor mosquito traps, more on that later.

Mosquito Traps

Here are two links.  More discussion to follow:

http://www.beyondpesticides.org/mosquito/documents/mosq_traps.PDF

http://www.cheapism.com/indoor-mosquito-traps

Every authoritative source says the first thing to do wrt mosquitos is to eliminate the breeding ground if possible.  I have been unable to find any standing water on my property.  It's interesting and suggestive that the mosquito problem arose when my sprinklers were being installed.  But all the new water drains within an hour of application, leaving no standing water on the ground.  This is not fast draining soil, but water on the surface doesn't stay long, though the ground itself can stay muddy for awhile.  If it's just mud that mosquitoes can breed in, well perhaps I do have that, but there's nothing I can do about it except leave all my grass and plants to die.  Perhaps there is standing water on a nearby lot but it might be hard for me to find.

Though it's not clear where the two or three mosquito bites I've gotten in the past two weeks happened, and it's possible I got them while being outside late at night watering, it also seems quite possible it has been from one or just a few mosquitos that somehow got into my house. I've been hearing one in bed and when brushing my teeth for the last week. They may have gotten in when opening the back door, or perhaps the garage door.  I did make the mistake last weekend of leaving the garage door open from about 7pm to 2am.

Those mosquitoes are quite annoying.  I've sometimes run my Lenco sonic repeller (a device which was forced off the market by lawsuit because of unproven effectiveness) and it often seems it keeps them away from the immediate area.  The batteries ran down a few days ago, so I haven't run it for the last few nights.  I may have gotten my most recent bite then.  Also, on the "dragonfly" setting it makes a noise which makes it impossible to hear mosquitoes, which at least helps in getting to sleep.  I've never been sorry I bought it, other than that it might have prevented me from getting something more or actually effective.  I have always thought it wouldn't protect you from a bunch of mosquitoes but it might protect you from just one or two.

Anyway, with just one or two mosquitoes in the house it makes great sense to me that I should have a mosquito trap inside the house.  It would probably cut down on the bites and almost certainly the in-house distraction.  So I researched indoor traps today.

To me the most obvious idea would be to have a trap emitting small puffs of CO2, just as humans do.  There are many outdoor traps that do this, usually by catalytically reacting a tank of fuel such as propane.  And there are others that use actual tanks of CO2.

But I could find no indoor mosquito traps that emit plausibly effective amounts of CO2.  You wouldn't want to burn (or even just "react") propane inside the house, for a number of reasons, including that it would be illegal.  But with sufficient safety measures, or simply a small cartridge of CO2, it seems to me like there could be indoor traps that emit CO2 from a small CO2 supply.  They could also generate it with some reaction, such as with baking soda and a granulated acid that reacts over time.  But I could not find any that did anything like that.  Typically, they simply attract mosquitos with fluorescent light tubes (often UV) and a fan which sucks nearby mosquitos in.

Instead, there are some traps which claim to emit CO2 not from any chemicals supplied, but simply by having an inner surface coated with TiO2.  Many reviewers on Amazon.com say they can't believe it works.  I thought about it for awhile and decided the TiO2 could be reacting VOC's in the air itself, which come from manmade sources (cars, painted surfaces, etc) and natural sources like trees and flowers, and cracking and oxidizing them on the TiO2 catalyst to make CO2.  That could work, but it's hard to see how you wound generate more than the tiniest amounts of CO2, such as in the parts per billion or even parts per trillion using such a process, and such quantities would be totally masked by the 390PPM of CO2 in ordinary air (which is probably somewhat higher than that inside an occupied house).

Anyway, even if these traps don't generate significant CO2, they still do attract flying insects including mosquitos with light, often UV light, and a fan sucks them in.

I'm referring specifically to the Dynatrap, such as the Indoor/Outdoor model the DT1000, which I read about on many websites.  I saw it even won some design award given to it in Germany.  And it gets more positive reviews than the cheaper traps that only use light and fan.  So however effective the CO2 generation is, perhaps the other parts are designed pretty well.  I finally decided I would get something like that because I couldn't find an indoor trap emitting larger more useful amounts of CO2.

I finally decided to get the Dynatrap 3 sold by Frontgate.  I couldn't find it anywhere else, it looked like a custom more attractive-than-usual version of the DT1000 with a more specially made UV light.  Frontgate has been selling mosquito traps since I first heard about them (in fact, I first read about them in a Frontgate catalog) and it looked like Frontgate may have gotten the lead on the manufacturer's latest generation, or a slightly upgraded model.  I've always enjoyed items I've bought from Frontgate, often they have actually been exceptional values worth the added cost many times over.  It cost about $34 more than the Dynatrap DT1000 from other websites, and that cost did not seem like that much more to me to get something slightly nicer and give Frontgate some of my business again.

Arguments against (and for) mulch rings

The more I read about planting trees, the more different recommendations I see.

Most of my new trees to not actually have mulch rings.  I am planning to add them to some to keep the weeds down.  But here is an argument against mulch rings:

http://landscapeofmeaning.blogspot.com/2011/01/case-against-mulch-rings.html

Here's a step-by-step planting guide from NCSU.  This one recommends having the top of the root ball level with the soil surface (not slightly--0.5 inch or so--higher as I have seen recommended elsewhere).  In fact, it suggests you could cover the root ball in soil, but less than one inch (that seems to be disasterous with my high clay soil).   It recommends a water retention ring around the tree, covered with 3 inches of mulch.  So, yes, mulch ring, but also water retention ring around it.  And they even have a partly above ground planting method, where the root ball is about 1/3 above regular soil level, but surrounded with topsoil to 5 times the width, and once again mulch above that.  That is recommended for poorly draining soil, but said to be a problem during dry spells.

Progress, or is that possible?

I ran sprinkler programs on Saturday night, or actually 1:00 am Sunday morning.  This was a lot of fun to watch, truly amazing.  5 operating zones.  I took note of a few things that didn't seem quite right, so was able to report them to sprinkler guy on Monday morning, who at that time made some adjustments and promised a new head for one sprinkler.  He programmed everything and explained generally how to work the system and answered some of my questions.  Interesting that I am only legally allowed to operate system from 3am to 8am and from 8pm to 10pm on my allotted day, which is Thursday.  I would have had him start the watering at 1am, at which time I am usually home from work, but not have to wait too long for it to start.  I have one zone that waters just the trees.  I had him not water the back grass as much as he wanted as it is mostly weeds anyway, but everything else is at his recommended levels.

He believes the system will be able to adequately water all my new trees.  I was skeptical of that before seeing the system operate, and testing moisture levels on Sunday.  Now I think, especially after he upped all the zone times, it may actually water too much and I'll have to cut it back.  But I can easily do that now.  He's OK with me adjusting timer panel and even sprinklers (though he said to give him a call first before adjusting sprinklers) without voiding my 5 year warranty.  He was relieved to learn I am a computer programmer.  He says he has the most trouble with lawyers, who can never figure the system out, and next with doctors.  I told him that did not surprise me at all.

Actually, on Sunday night, I went around checking trees and watering as necessary, and now just as I have installed full automation, I have figured out the best hand method.  That is go around the yard and soil test and water each tree as needed.  To water properly, I adjusted spigot so that on "shower" the nozzle delivered one gallon in about 40 seconds (using a new one gallon plastic water can to test), making for about 1.5 gallons per minute.  Then, each tree gets between 3-8 gallons depending on how big a tree and how much moisture it needs.  That means 2-5 minutes per plant, directed at the root area.  Easy.  Biggest problem was carrying around chair, flashlight, soil tester, and hose all at the same time.

Using a soaker hose curled around tree--as I had been doing for a month--turns out to be a pain in the neck because you don't know how much water is being delivered.  And then if you have two soaker hoses, it gets worse because it's hard to get both adjusted properly at the same time.  And then after all that, with a single manifold like I have, you have to turn both adjustments back to off so you can use other hoses.  So that means you have to do the adjustment every time you water, and the adjustment alone takes about 15 minutes, and then there's re-checking and re-adjusting at 30 minute intervals.  It's an easy way to kill an hour and a half and likely way overwater...since you have now way of knowing how much water or even if it's the same as last time.  It actually took me less time to top-up all 13 plants in back with a hose nozzle than to just water two plants with a soaker hose.  And it's more rewarding as you get to sit and visit with each plant, and not keep running back and forth trying to get the flow rate right.  I had purchased a couple additional flow adjusters but never got around to installing them.  Even if I had, theres an issue that the water pressure isn't always the same.  The sprinkler system has its own internal pressure regulator.

Even Tree-IV doesn't work quite right.  As you are filling each 5 gallon Tree-IV bucket, the water is simultaneously flowing out through the ground spike nearly as fast as you are filling it.  So it's not really 5 gallons, more like 20, if you can even ever get the bucket filled.  Finally I found I could slow this down by putting a cap over the ground spike inside the bucket.  Even that doesn't stop the water from running out, because the cap doesn't fit tightly when you use it that way (it was intended to cover spike when bucket is not on it) but it only slows it down enough so you can actually fill the bucket.  I think Tree-IV sells a separate bucket cap separately, but that is for filling up the bucket elsewhere, and then moving to a tree.

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On Saturday afternoon I picked up 10 more Xeripave permeable pavers to start on the pathways and patios I plan to build.  Remember that on Thursday I borrowed two of these from the side near the power box so the planting guys could install over my gate threshold, an area that needs to stay moist to keep gate poles from shifting.  So I was able to replace those two back by the power box, which is another corner of the house that badly needs to stay moist.  I put two at the edge of my existing patio, and then two in front of the gate opening.

As I was installing, however, I found a problem with these that means I will probably not use them 100% (besides the high cost).  They can get slippery especially if covered with mud.  After that, I decided to mix paver types, keeping the existing concrete pavers on both sides of the gate, and adding more of the concrete paver extras I had.  I had been thinking that the Xeri pavers had less traction when wet than concrete pebbled pavers.  However, on Monday morning, this proved to be untrue--I slipped on a concrete paver that had some mud on it too.  So right now, I can't say which has the more reliable traction.  The Xeripave may be ever so slightly smoother, but the water flows right through so the mud likely isn't as moist.  So it is, as they say, a wash.

Another mark against Xeripave--I broke one somehow.  I suspect these are no where near as strong as concrete.  Of course, even concrete pavers can be broken, as I have done.

Part of the reason I slipped on Saturday when installing the pavers was because the little circular pavers leading up to the gate from the inside were just sitting on top of ground after being disturbed by the sprinkler installation digging..very high and very unstable.  I fixed that on Sunday afternoon, digging the first paver into the ground so it is fairly stable.  It is also lower now, and sits just slightly above the Xeripavers at the gate threshold (instead of way above it, as it was when I slipped).

But because of my fear of Xeripave slipperiness, I decided not to put one immediately on the outside of the gate as I had planned.  Instead I used two 6x18" cement pavers staggered slightly to match the desired path.  That spot doesn't need xeripave so much because it is shielded by the house (immediately to the south) from excess sunlight.

Anyway, right now i can walk from the west side of the patio to the front of the house and only on pavers (however some of the old ones near the A/C are almost covered by grass and ground and need to be replaced with bigger ones anyway).  So this should help keeping my shoes from getting 1" of mud buildup...now that I'm turning my yard into a swamp.

*****

Speaking of which, I discovered a pencil-thin dark nearly black colored snake in my hallway on Sunday afternoon.  I almost killed it, but was too paranoid to get close because I didn't have any clothes on.  Fortunately I didn't touch it at all, but at least scared it away from going into master bedroom.  After some later reading, I believe it is nothing to worry about.  It can't really live inside the house.  It's not interesting in biting me--even if it was the biting kind.  It's interested in avoiding me, and finding the way back outside (which I hope by now it already has).  It probably slipped in when I was testing the sprinklers and left the garage door open.  Actually, I left the garage door open most of Saturday after I got home around 7pm.  So I should remember not to do that.

A reptile expert at works says it is likely a Rat Snake, and possibly a Corn Snake.  These are not venemous, they kill rodents by constriction.  They are essential to the ecosystem or we would be overrun by rats.  The Corn Snake in particular is the most popular snake species for pets, also most recommended for snake newbies, though it is recommended to buy young snakes from stores.